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Clean Sweep T 
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Sidekick S 
Stayin' Alive S 
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Total Eclipse S 
Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 

Clean Sweep 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Mike Amato, 6/21/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,752
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The rope is following the pitch.

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Description 

Clean Sweep is a fun trad route that goes up a steep crack system right of the second pitch of Stayin' Alive.

This route is a good reason to bring your trad rack to Tonnere Tower -- it's not just for bolt clippers anymore! The cruxes are well protected, but you'll need good pro-placing skills along the way.

Start by climbing the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9, 7 bolts), Face Off (5.8, 6 bolts), or Nick Of Time (5.6, gear). Bring your partner up. Now move the belay 15' right to a second 2-bolt anchor. Clean Sweep starts here. You could also climb Buried Treasure (5.9, bolts, 2 pitches) to get to this anchor.

Traverse right below a small roof for about 20' until you're below a nice-looking crack system. Climb up the cracks, with a fun 5.8 layback (#2 Camalot for pro). At a steep headwall, get a green Alien in a small finger pocket on the right, and traverse a bit right (5.8) and up to the top of a flake. A second steep crack system looms above. Climb up the steep cracks with a 5.9 crux (#13 Stopper for pro). Continue up and traverse right around an airy bulge (purple tricam in horizontal quartz crack for pro). Climb up to a big grassy ledge, and go up a short steep section to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge, just down and right from the top anchor on Stayin' Alive.

Descent: rappel 90' back to the ledge at the start; angle the rappel a bit to the left. Then rappel 95' from the Stayin' Alive anchor back to the ground. From the anchor at the start of Clean Sweep, you could also rappel Buried Treasure (2 rappels, 70' and 95') back to the start of that route.

Location 

On the northeast face of Tonnere Tower, right of the second pitch of Stayin' Alive. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection 

Lots of finger- to hand-sized pro. A large wired nut (#13 Stopper), a #2 tricam (purple), double set of cams from green Alien to #2 Camalot, and a #3 Camalot. A third #2 Camalot could be useful.

There are some flared cracks along the way; a set of hybrid Aliens is useful if you have them. I placed a red/yellow hybrid Alien on the pitch.

2-bolt belay anchor at the start; 2-bolt anchor at the top.

I put in about 14 pieces of pro on the first ascent; stronger leaders could get by with less.


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By Split
From: Boulder
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this route on 6/26. Rating seemed about right, since it felt a little harder than Gonzo and V3 in Eldo. Good pitch overall with some crumbly rock in sections that will clean up over time. I did not have offset cams and a lot of the cracks are flaring, but it still protects well enough if you are solid at the grade.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 5, 2007

There's a big block perched on the second pitch belay ledge. Be careful.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Still a little loose and an indirect line connecting a few fun sections though. Might clean up with time, but it's still indirect and will never be a great line. Worth doing, but that's it.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It seems fairly clean at present. The line is not obvious but becomes apparent as you move upwards.