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 ADVANCED
Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bolts T,TR 
Blown Out T 
Chummin' for Splatter S 
Clean Sweep T,TR 
Crack, The T 
From the Ashes S 
I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
Moon Doggies T 
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

Clean Sweep 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Coates, Mike Moore
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2006

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Description 

Clean sweep is the mostly-bolted route to the right of the crack that splits the left side of Foothill Crag. There is a run-out section that isn't too difficult, but if you were to slip near the top of the runout before clipping you'd probably deck. The runout section might be protectable with a cam or two.

The climbing is sandy slab climbing, clean at the bottom, kinda dirty in the runout section and near the top.


Protection 

3 bolts, a runout section, then 2 bolts and anchors. The anchors are not accessible from the top without rappelling, but the route can be top-roped using a tree and a stout bush with about 20 feet or so of extension needed.

Reese Martin replaced 1 anchor bolt on Clean Sweep - 9/99.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 18, 2006

In late 2005, a lower first bolt was added to the route at the request of first-ascentionist Tim Coates. This bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

The start of the route feels like 5.10b if you don't use the obvious corner that sits 5 feet to the left.

The rock quality at the top of this route is very poor. In 2003, a belayer nearly met her maker when the leader pulled a toaster-sized block off from about 60 feet up. Be careful on this one.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 18, 2006

A few interesting historical notes:

First, the name was derived from the process of cleaning the route. The rock was literally so dirty that Coates and Moore rappelled the route with large push-brooms, removing buckets-full of dirt.

Second, the actual FA was done rope-solo by Tim Coates. At the time, the route sported just two protection bolts, the first of which was 30 feet off the ground. Coates tied one end of the rope to a tree and clipped in using a clovehitch. He then fired all the way to the anchors on a fixed belay, clipping two bolts enroute.

By Richard Shore
Feb 25, 2010

Even with the additional 3rd bolt (why?) at the start, there is deck potential from 30+ feet getting to the 4th bolt. There are one or two questionable small gear placements in the runout, but based on the rock quality, they likely wouldn't hold.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 26, 2010

Agreed. The difference is that the climbing through the first three bolts is 3 or 4 grades harder than the runout that you refer to.

By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 23, 2010

Cool route, the direct start is great and very clean. Given that there is a ground-fall potential at the top, whoever added the bolts at the start should be ashamed. Tim may have given the go ahead for one of them, but its really hard to imagine him being ok with his route being half sport bolted and half X-rated. No matter what the first ascensionist permits, I think it is just plain weak to try to bring the route down to the herd's level. But it is even weaker to grid bolt the beginning while not touching the rest; were is the logic there? The ethical criteria displayed in the first ascents in the Ojai area are inspiring, and amateur bolting as seen on this route is extremely disrespectful to the rich history of these areas.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 18, 2011

The first ascentionist requested that a lower first bolt be placed. The moment Tim asks for more bolts higher up, someone should consider obliging him--and not sooner. How is this amateurish or disrespectful?

The comment about "trying to bring the route down to the herd's level" seems absurd. The top is still run out.