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Lower Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Bird's Nest Overhang T 
Blood Transfusion T 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 

Clean Love 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug and Karen Klewin
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Jplotz on Oct 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


Clean Love starts out on gritty slab past a semi detached pillar, where the wall kicks up to near vertical. The crux is sustained, flaring cracks requiring more finesse than brute strength. Tiny footholds keep you adhered as you slam in your .5 Camalot at the crux. Pro is tricky before and after this section.

What makes this route excellent is that it is virtually ignored by 99% of the climbers who beeline it to The Fault and Smut. This is a fun, high quality route that has been 'recently' cleaned and equipped.


Clean Love is located climber's right of The Fault chimney. Look for the obvious clean crack splitting the dark, lichenated stone surrounding it.


Pro is your gear and your finger locks. There is a new bolted, chain anchor at the top of this pitch, also shared by the adjacent AIDS Victim, 5.10c.

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By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Sep 18, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

An awesome route and yes, very ignored. I would say 10c and a little devious at that. Feels harder than Mr. Clean and PG advised for sure. Gear feels solid.
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