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 ADVANCED
Lower Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Blood Transfusion T,S 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 

Clean Love 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug and Karen Klewin
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Jplotz on Oct 5, 2012

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Clean Love starts out on gritty slab past a semi detached pillar, where the wall kicks up to near vertical. The crux is sustained, flaring cracks requiring more finesse than brute strength. Tiny footholds keep you adhered as you slam in your .5 Camalot at the crux. Pro is tricky before and after this section.

What makes this route excellent is that it is virtually ignored by 99% of the climbers who beeline it to The Fault and Smut. This is a fun, high quality route that has been 'recently' cleaned and equipped.

Location 

Clean Love is located climber's right of The Fault chimney. Look for the obvious clean crack splitting the dark, lichenated stone surrounding it.

Protection 

Pro is your gear and your finger locks. There is a new bolted, chain anchor at the top of this pitch, also shared by the adjacent AIDS Victim, 5.10c.


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