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Start atop a large block and make a few easy moves to clip a bolt, pull the roof (crux) and gain the crack. From here head up the flaring crack can clip a bolt to the left with a long sling. Before exiting the crack head right to a bolt you can't see from the ground. Continue angling right for the dike past another bolt. Head for the top passing occasional opportunities for pro.
Between Walking Dread and Dirty Black Nightmare, shares start with Black Streak. Look for the low first bolt and roof leading to a 20 ft crack.
4 Bolts, Nuts & cams up to hand size, runners to avoid rope drag. Build a anchor at the top or belay from the rap bolts atop Bienvenidos. Descent can rap Beinvenidos with a single 60m or walkoff to east.
Bruce Holthouse: High up on the dream.
The opportunities for unique positioning and movem...
Bruce on the slab
Photo courtesy of andrewburr.co...
|By Mike Howard|
Nov 11, 2009
Replaced crux bolt and hanger 11/10/09 with SS 3/8 Fixe 2x3/4 stud with Fixe hanger.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This was a really fun route. As I smeared that face leading past the last bolt I sure felt off route- no more bolts, no obvious pro but it ended up protecting surprisingly well. Just follow the features and it will all work out fine!
Oct 4, 2013
Not for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Tricky pro, ~15-20 foot runouts, and slab make this a great route, but I'd make sure I was confident at the grade.