Clean and Jerk
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Tim Bui just past the crux of Clean and Jerk
What a classic line!
Approach Sports Challenge Rock on the southeast side and scamble down into the shaded "slot" on that side. Near the left end of the east face, and just left of an large pine tree, you'll see a prominent curving crack that starts about 20 feet off the ground and arcs upward to the top of the rock. A few scoops and seams lead up though steep terrain to this crack.
Boulder up scoops and seams up and left through a slight overhang, placing a few good nuts along the way. These will be #4-#8 BD Stoppers or eq size (if memory serves me); small TCU's may also work. The crux is body english and slopers. Reach a great jam some 25' up and start placing cams. The crack starts as a left-leaning feature, but arcs its way through the rock, eventually becoming a right-leaner. This great climb offers good face climbing as well as good jamming, from thin-hands to fists.
Tape up and enjoy a classic!
Small-to-medium nuts at the bottom, and medium cams up higher. Carry a full set of stoppers and cams from 1" to 3.5"
The protection at the bottom is adequate, but maybe difficult to place. An experienced 5.10 leader should be safe here, but a person at their limit will find it hard to place protection down there.
Past the crux, fighting the pump, about to get a n...
Chris Trudeau, 12/06
Chris leading up Clean and Jerk 5.10b
Clean & Jerk at J-Tree. Photo by Geir H.
Through the pumpy crux.
The climbing gets easier, but the pump has started...
Just past the crux on Clean and Jerk. Spring '06. ...
Tom Callaghan on the start '84 or so
Kevin Riley on Clean & Jerk
BETA PHOTO: Clean and Jerk, Joshua Tree
Just another shot.
|Comments on Clean and Jerk
|By Joe Collins|
Jul 3, 2002
Awesome climb and one of the best! After the boulder problem start, the climbing is sustained in the 9+/10- range. I recall getting a good horizontal #3 camalot right after standing up at the 10 foot level. The climb is "S" only in the sense that the belayer needs to double as a spotter for the boulder problem/mantle at the start. Gear is bomber and straight-forward after that.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 4, 2002
I haven't done a ton of routes at Josh, but this was one of the two orthree best. Steep climbing on good holds.
I placed a solid #2 friend (#1 camalot equivalent) during the cruxface section at the start.
|By Steven Powers|
Oct 27, 2003
crux section is easier if you dont stop to place the pro, i recomend having a bolder pad or a good spotter and hold off on the pro till you get through the crux, there is an awsome stance a move or two after the crux, the crux isnt to far off the deck.
Dec 2, 2003
On the FA, the final section of the route was finished right then up, rather than straight up as is commonly done now. A fixed pin was placed on FA in one of the lower horizontals (it came out many years ago). A 2-3" cam works just as well today.
|By C Miller|
Feb 2, 2005
This is an excellent route with a bouldery face crux that leads into a steep and somewhat strenuous crack that eats gear. The only potential drawback to this route is the busy location right off the loop trail. Four stars out of five.
|By Kayte Knower|
Mar 27, 2007
Probably my favorite pitch of trad climbing to date. It doesn't look that tall from the ground, but it was plenty pumpy. I really had to commit to get through the bottom. Steep, clean as a whistle (or should I say jerk), and well protected. Even the little chimney is nice, like a granite recliner.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Aug 26, 2007
Including the weird, semi-protectable (for me) lower crux, this is more of a face climb in that there are abundant jug holds on either side of the crack. In a sense this can allow for too many choices, leading to a premature pump factor.
Nov 14, 2007
After hearing some horror stories about sandbagging & runouts on this route, I was a bit intimidated at first. However, I found it neither sandbagged nor runout, and don't see what all the fuss was about. Actually, I thought Sphincter Quits (5.9+) around the corner was a scarier lead than Clean & Jerk.
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2008
Very nice line, with fun, committing moves right off the deck. I found that one can get a #0 TCU in to protect the first big move. For me, this was necessary, as I whipped on it (more evidence that Metolius makes bomber gear). After that, the #1 camalot fits perfectly in a horizontal. If you're not used to overhung, gymastic starts, and/or are short, the beginning moves can feel quite hard (as they did for me). Overall, the 5.10+ rating is accurate.
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 15, 2010
Can protect the start fine if one so chooses. Had fallen on that piece with fingertips less than a half inch short of the lip of that first Red Camalot slot on the onsight attempt a few years back. Took the longest possible crux fall and ended up with some air to spare. Had looked at the fall distances beforehand, very thoroughly. Attentive belaying helped. Finally got around to leading it again last weekend, and it went fine with same first pieces, with less noise than before.
|By Xan Calonne|
From: Los Feliz, Ca
Nov 3, 2012
BETA ALERT: save some bigger pieces for the anchor, (1,2,3 bd). so good.