hard start(crux) with solid cam to keep you off the ground. very pumpy start all the way to the ledge 25' up. second crux is up high, a little hard to protect especially if under 6'tall. good warmup for White Fandango.
this route is 15' left of White Fandango and starts below a double crack that takes you to the ledge. from there go left up dihedral to tree anchor.
normal rack, maybe an extra .75 and #1 camalot would be nice too.
From: The land of steady habits
Aug 16, 2008
route is listed in some books as 5.6
I'd say its harder than Pegasus
|By Clint Cummins|
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009
FA: Ken Nichols, 7/1980
listed as 5.7 R in the 1995 guidebook
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
Looks like a whole bunch of rock sloughed off the beginning of the climb. Not much pro available.
From: Wallingford, CT
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
I don't think its harder than Pegasus but those first few moves aren't 5.6 like the CT guidebook says. It's definitely a fun start. The top is tough to protect but its easy cruising up there