Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Swan Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Route T 
Bay Tree Crack T 
Bobcat Crack T,TR 
Claude's Delight T 
Grant's Crack T,TR 
Hanging Flake T 
Lena's Lieback T 
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 
Oak Tree Flake T 
Penelope's Problem T 
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 
Pin Scar Seams T 
Swan Slab Chimney T 
Swan Slab Gully T 
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 
Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
Unnamed Face Route TR 
Unnamed Seam TR 
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 
V-Crack T,TR 
West Slabs TR 

Claude's Delight 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Claude Fiddler & Peter Olander - August 1972
Page Views: 1,359
Submitted By: Osprey on Jan 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is a great beginner friendly pitch. Start up broken cracks passing bushes (.7) to a bolted belay with chains (top of Lena'a Lieback).

Top out option:
From the chains, traverse left out an exposed undercling flake (#4camalot) then up and to the right (.7) following crack to the belay ledge. This is the second pitch of Lena's Lieback. Then walk off to thre right. The quick walk off has a short scramble/down climb section to it.

Location 

This route is right of Lena's Lieback. It is the last climb on the right side of Swan Slab.

Protection 

Single set. This climb shares the anchor chains with Lena's Lieback.

If you choose to top out, use a natural anchor on top of pitch two. Walk off to the right.


Comments on Claude's Delight Add Comment
Show which comments
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Jul 20, 2011

actaully claudes delight is the single pitch 5.7 to the shared anchors. then to the left is three pitches as lena's. that go 5.9, 5.8., 5.8. walk off
By Osprey
From: ...
Jul 24, 2011

Right you are Rex, thanks for the heads up. I've changed the discription to match the reality of these two climbs.
By Osprey
From: ...
Jul 24, 2011

From the chains, it is possible to pull the roof/arete on the right and climb a short pitch to the top. This pitch is a steep, knobby slab with periodic shallow cracks that take aliens well. Belay from the tree. (5.9) This is more of a natural continuation for Claude's Delight, but is more on the difficult side of the moderate range.
By Michael Spielman
From: Reno, NV
May 12, 2014

This is a great route to practice trad leading and then set up a toprope for Lena's Lieback. Then you can mock lead the significantly harder Lena's or do a lot of laps. Great for a hot day as it's in the shade. In spring though, you'll be competing with the mosquitos.