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Clastic Cling 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Stuart Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 958
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 7, 2004
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Description 

This route is similar in nature to its neighbor, Melting Point 5.10b, but a little harder the whole way up. Climb this as one or two pitches. If doing it as two:

P1) Start on the 2nd bolted route from the left, just right of the huge roof. The crux is the first few moves, and is somewhat height dependent. If you can get established off the ground, the rest of the route eases up. Pull a small roof at the 2nd bolt, then wander up easy terrain to the intermediate anchor. 5.10d (4 bolts total)

P2) Trend left from the anchor. Climb through 3 bolts with steep jug hauling, which finishes the overhang. Finish by climbing up the top part of Melting Point through 2 pitons. 5.10a

Descent) 60m rope barely reaches the ground. Otherwise, make 2 raps uing the intermediate anchor.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 pins



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By Nathan Fisher
May 22, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Great route with some good moves. Tough initial move seemed harder than 5.10d. Maybe, it was just me.