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classics at RRG in 5.9-5.10 range sport?
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By Timm G
Mar 14, 2013

Hey headed to RRG next week for ten days and was wondering what are some peoples favorite sport climbs in the range of 5.9-5.10? Would love to lead some great routes while there.

Also what are some good easy trad routes (5.5) at the RRG to practice placing pro on and learn some more? Somethings that wont completely scare me away from trad be nice.

Thanks for your help!


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By S. Neoh
Mar 14, 2013

Check out "The Classics" at the link below first -
www.mountainproject.com/v/red-river-gorge/105841134

To those, I would add Boltergeist and Fire and Brimstone.
And if you crave steep routes, add Air Ride Equipped and Whipstocking (both arguably .10d).

Have fun.


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By Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Mar 14, 2013
Day at Summersville Lake

Hey Timm - I don't really have any personal suggestions but did want to let you know of a feature that I've found pretty cool here on MountainProject.com. If you go to the area in the Destinations database, on the left hand menu under two drop downs is a link labeled "Best routes for YOU in this area"...click that and you can specify such criteria as the difficulty range, sport/trad/etc, and filter or sort by quality star ratings. Obviously this is limited to what is actually in the database as it is likely not all routes will have been documented here but is a cool tool that for an area as large as the Red, you may find useful.

Good luck and have a great trip!
Dan


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 14, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

Timm G wrote:
Hey headed to RRG next week for ten days and was wondering what are some peoples favorite sport climbs in the range of 5.9-5.10? Would love to lead some great routes while there.


Moderate sport over Spring Break? Yeah, you're definitely not going to be waiting in line for those...


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By zach ruswick
Mar 14, 2013
Hot n'Bothered 5.10b on the Long Wall at Summersville Lake. Photo by Doug DiJulio

Camhead has a point, but check out the Hideout in Muir Valley for a good range of 5.10s all within 40 yards of each other. To Defy The Laws of Tradition (5.10a) at Left Flank is worth a visit, but one of my favorite sport routes in the RRG regardless of grade is Creepshow, which is 5.10d at Phantasia Crag. If you go to Phantasia do Creature Feature, which is a classic 5.9+, but again, you may have to take a number and get in line to get on it. Good Luck!


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By EricSchmidt
Mar 14, 2013

camhead wrote:
Moderate sport over Spring Break? Yeah, you're definitely not going to be waiting in line for those...


No he won't. Well okay sometimes he will but midweek there are TONS of great moderates that wont have lines on them. Stop being such a negative know it all.


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By todd w
Mar 14, 2013

Timm G wrote:
Hey headed to RRG next week for ten days and was wondering what are some peoples favorite sport climbs in the range of 5.9-5.10? Would love to lead some great routes while there. Also what are some good easy trad routes (5.5) at the RRG to practice placing pro on and learn some more? Somethings that wont completely scare me away from trad be nice. Thanks for your help!


Wall of denial for easy trad (Bongo, funhouse); no crowds & south-facing

+1 to creepshow @ phantasia
+1 to whoever said to expect to wait in line

Bruise brothers wall has lots of good stuff for you, but expect it to be crowded.

If you go to Muir, put $5 into the donation box.

Redriverclimbing.com has much better info than this site, including an online guide and a more active community. Search their forums.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 14, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

EricSchmidt wrote:
No he won't. Well okay sometimes he will but midweek there are TONS of great moderates that wont have lines on them. Stop being such a negative know it all.


Dude, have you ever tried to find moderate sport even midweek at the RRG during Spring Break? Mid-week will not factor into it at all.

It's a perfect storm:

-an area that is within 10 hrs drive of over 50% of the US's population (ok, I made up that stat, but it's close)
-a time of year in which large groups of college students looking for vertical, easy topropes are at their peak
-unstable weather, which can easily reduce the number of dry moderate sport routes to, I dunno, less than 10

I'm just prepping him so that he doesn't get his hopes up. Oh, and Timm, how big of a group will you be with?


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By Timm G
Mar 14, 2013

Well thanks guys for all the input! Yea I am assuming that there will be lines for some routes. And yea I know about that tool. But that tool hasn't always been the best usage for me.

The group I will be with is going to be large but prolly break off into groups of 3. One day leading with the sport guys and another day with the trad guys learning.

Also spring breaks are about over that late in the season. My spring break is the week prior along with most colleges in the north east region.

Regardless of lines of other people, weather conditions, ad anything else negative I'm really looking forward to this trip.


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By Alex Mitchell
From Utica, NY
Mar 14, 2013
Me Climbing

camhead wrote:
-unstable weather, which can easily reduce the number of dry moderate sport routes to, I dunno, less than 10


That figure is a bit off. You get spoiled by how much rock stays dry in the rain at the Red. I climbed in the North East for awhile and figured out just how spoiled I was.

Back of the guide book has a list of all routes by grade and number of stars. Anything 3 stars and above will be great! (There is a lot of them)

Good easy trad can be found at Fortress wall.

Crowds arnt bad during the week, however Saturday and Sunday are crazy.


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By BCA
From michigan
Mar 16, 2013

+1 for fortress wall.

also, muir valley has lots of 9-10d sport routes in a relatively condensed area. a few walls to visit:
bruise brothers, as metioned earlier. then head to sunnyside.
great wall,then head to the hideout and do moots madness and
boltergeist.


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By BCA
From michigan
Mar 16, 2013

and, yes. expect crowds in muir...especially if there is good weather. you might not see anyone at fortress, on the other hand.


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By S. Neoh
Mar 16, 2013

BB is fine to visit your 1st time at RRG. IMO, there are better crags to visit in Muir for 5.9~5.10; Plate Tectonic and Johnny's Wall, for example. If you like slabby climbs, Chica Bonita in PMRP has a few long ones which are enjoyable and almost never busy.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Mar 21, 2013
Moby dick 5.11-

Oompa, Loompa, Glass Elevator at Chocolate Factory,

the 5.10's at Drive-By Crag...

Get up early or leave later and you won't have to wait too much in line. Also, these routes stay dry during a downpour so go climb them while the weather is crap...less chances of other climbers at the crag.


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By BrandonK
From Columbus, Ohio
Mar 21, 2013

I was there all of last week and the crowds were only noticeable on the weekends and I was on 5.9-5.12 sport and didn't have to wait more than 15 minutes (and that was for hypocrite).

5.10 range all of jonnys and tetonics are good and that puts you close to boltergeist

under 5.10 creature feature and pogue ethics (phantasia) eureka (ladyslipper) 27 years of climbing (gallery)

for trad most of the lower george region doesn't get a ton of traffic pistol ridge and pebble beach have some pretty easy stuff as well as a few sport lines the trad over in the corner at phantasia may be higher than you wanted but they were fun.

Have a good break


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By Timm G
Mar 22, 2013

Thanks everyone will be using this advice leaving tonight/tomorrow depending on how I feel after work. All my partners bailed so I will be needing a partner if anyone is also in need let me know please.


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