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Classically Liberal
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 11
votes
Routes in Right Side Gully
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Adaptive Expectations S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Capitalism & Freedom S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Classically Liberal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Consumption Dysfunction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free to Choose S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Invisible Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Natural Rate of Unemployment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Income Hypothesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Jesse Groves & Matthew Fienup, October 2007 |
| Page Views: | 2,600 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Oct 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
This route is very unusual for the Fortress--steep and strenuous with lots of dynamic movement. Many of the holds on the route are opposing side-pulls or pinches.
The decisive crux of the route is passing the second bolt. The remainder of the route checks in at sustained 5.9.
The decisive crux of the route is passing the second bolt. The remainder of the route checks in at sustained 5.9.
Location
This route and its 10a neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Classically Liberal" is the right-hand of 2 routes on the formation.
Protection
6 lead bolts (1/2" Rawls) plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts). Carry a #1 or #2 TCU to really sew it up below the final lead bolt.
Be careful when clipping the second bolt as a fall with slack out will result in ground-fall (less confident climbers can pre-hang a draw or even stick-clip the second bolt from the ground). Once clipped, the second bolt offers excellent protection through the crux sequence.
Be careful when clipping the second bolt as a fall with slack out will result in ground-fall (less confident climbers can pre-hang a draw or even stick-clip the second bolt from the ground). Once clipped, the second bolt offers excellent protection through the crux sequence.
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