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Classic Rock Climbs In Red Rocks

Original Post
fargo · · Freemont, VA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

I am headed out West with my girlfriend next week and will be climbing for the first time in Red Rocks. What are the must do climbs? I climb trad and sport, and I also love to boulder.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I have climbed most of the moderate trad routes at RR..below are my favorites in varying grades, from north to south...Enjoy your trip!

Red Rock Trad Climbs, From North to South

Stilgar’s Wild Ride, 5.8R, 6 Pitches
Nadia’s Nine, 5.9+, 2 Pitches
Middle Earth, 5.9, 6 Pitches
Orange Clonus, 5.10d, 7 Pitches
Spectrum, 5.11aR, 7 Pitches
Big Horn, 5.8, 4 Pitches
Chasing Shadows, 5.8+, 4 Pitches
Dark Shadows, 5.8, 12 Pitches
Edge of the Sun, 5.10d, 3 Pitches
Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9, 8 Pitches
Adventure Punks, 5.10d, 5 Pitches
Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches
Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c, 5 Pitches
Sweet Thin, 5.9, 7 Pitches
Requiem for a Tad Pole, 5.9+, 5 Pitches
Time’s Up, 5.11d, 6 Pitches
The Nightcrawler, 5.10, 4 Pitches
Pro Choice, 5.11a, 4 Pitches
Bird Hunter Buttress, 5.9, 12 Pitches
Cloud Tower, 5.11d, 7 Pitches
Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8, 9 Pitches
Ginger Cracks, 5.9, 7 Pitches
Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, 7 Pitches
Frieda’s Flake, 5.9, 3 Pitches
Beulah's Book, 5.9, 4 Pitches
Sundog, 5.10a, 8 Pitches
Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches
Solar Flare, 5.10c, 5 Pitches
Rainbow Buttress, 5.8+, 8 Pitches
Mountain Beast, 5.11a, 8 Pitches
Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0, 9 Pitches
The Warrior, 5.11a, 7 Pitches
Cinnamon Hedgehog, 5.10a, 6 Pitches
Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d
Inti Watana, 5.10c, 12 Pitches
Pink Tornado Left, 5.9+, 8 Pitches
Voodoo Doll, 5.9, 2 Pitches
Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches
Arrow Place, 5.9, 3 Pitches
Drunken Frog, 5.8+, 6 Pitches
Misunderstanding, 5.9, 2 Pitches
Sandblast, 5.10a, 2 Pitches
Triassic Sands, 5.10, 6 Pitches
Amber, 5.10c, 4 Pitches
Prince of Darkness, 5.10c, 6 Pitches
Dream of Wild Turkeys, 5.10a, 10 Pitches
Gobbler, 5.10a, 3 Pitches
Sour Mash, 5.10a, 6 Pitches
Overhanging Hangover, 5.10a, 2 Pitches
Epinephrine, 5.9, 11 Pitches
Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9, 7 Pitches
Western Swing, 5.10b, 8 Pitches
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990
Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 870

You really need to tell us how hard you are looking to climb, if you want helpful guidance.

I was down there a couple weeks ago and climbed Geronimo, a 4-pitch 5.6. It was a TON of fun. Steepest juggiest 5.6 I have ever seen, and the belay ledges are all cushy. A great beginner girlfriend route, we swapped leads the whole way.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
Dow Williams wrote:I have climbed most of the moderate trad routes at RR..below are my favorites in varying grades, from north to south...Enjoy your trip! Red Rock Trad Climbs, From North to South Stilgar’s Wild Ride, 5.8R, 6 Pitches Nadia’s Nine, 5.9+, 2 Pitches Middle Earth, 5.9, 6 Pitches Orange Clonus, 5.10d, 7 Pitches Spectrum, 5.11aR, 7 Pitches Big Horn, 5.8, 4 Pitches Chasing Shadows, 5.8+, 4 Pitches Dark Shadows, 5.8, 12 Pitches Edge of the Sun, 5.10d, 3 Pitches Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9, 8 Pitches Adventure Punks, 5.10d, 5 Pitches Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c, 5 Pitches Sweet Thin, 5.9, 7 Pitches Requiem for a Tad Pole, 5.9+, 5 Pitches Time’s Up, 5.11d, 6 Pitches The Nightcrawler, 5.10, 4 Pitches Pro Choice, 5.11a, 4 Pitches Bird Hunter Buttress, 5.9, 12 Pitches Cloud Tower, 5.11d, 7 Pitches Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8, 9 Pitches Ginger Cracks, 5.9, 7 Pitches Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, 7 Pitches Frieda’s Flake, 5.9, 3 Pitches Beulah's Book, 5.9, 4 Pitches Sundog, 5.10a, 8 Pitches Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches Solar Flare, 5.10c, 5 Pitches Rainbow Buttress, 5.8+, 8 Pitches Mountain Beast, 5.11a, 8 Pitches Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0, 9 Pitches The Warrior, 5.11a, 7 Pitches Cinnamon Hedgehog, 5.10a, 6 Pitches Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d Inti Watana, 5.10c, 12 Pitches Pink Tornado Left, 5.9+, 8 Pitches Voodoo Doll, 5.9, 2 Pitches Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches Arrow Place, 5.9, 3 Pitches Drunken Frog, 5.8+, 6 Pitches Misunderstanding, 5.9, 2 Pitches Sandblast, 5.10a, 2 Pitches Triassic Sands, 5.10, 6 Pitches Amber, 5.10c, 4 Pitches Prince of Darkness, 5.10c, 6 Pitches Dream of Wild Turkeys, 5.10a, 10 Pitches Gobbler, 5.10a, 3 Pitches Sour Mash, 5.10a, 6 Pitches Overhanging Hangover, 5.10a, 2 Pitches Epinephrine, 5.9, 11 Pitches Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9, 7 Pitches Western Swing, 5.10b, 8 Pitches
Stellar list!! Nice!
fargo · · Freemont, VA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Thanks Dow. That's an amazing list and I appreciate your time. Psyched!

fargo · · Freemont, VA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Btw. Do I need to have concern about someone stealing my gear at the cliff if I have a project? I have read some crazy threads and one by the blm about gear being stolen.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Regarding this theft stuff. Been climbing for 20+ years. For anyone climbing in California or near Vegas to be surprised that gear gets jacked from their car or base of the crag baffles me really. Canadian Rockies....never happens. Wyoming, western Colorado, Utah, rarely. It has been this way since I can remember. Is anyone really surprised? Obviously you would be foolish to leave anything in clear sight at any of the parking areas. I normally day trip it myself to Red Rock and am fortunate in that regard (only take gear for a specific route). But if you are traveling and camping, best to hide your gear the best you possibly can, trunks, etc. It is and has been a hazard of climbing in heavily populated and visited areas. I am sure the devastated Vegas economy has made it a bit worse than normal. One of just many reasons I personally prefer to climb in remote locations, get off the beaten path. Good Luck on your trip and enjoy!

phil broscovak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 1,631

Dow, I checked out your site, great stuff!

Scott Grover · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

If you're looking for bouldering, you're going to want to go to kraft boulderfield. Amazing boulders from v0-v12

Robert Fielding · · Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 195

Dows got a nice list of a lot of the classics.

Don't know how well you do with the cold, but a lot of the best routes seem to be shaded during the winter. So keep an out for the east/south facing areas.

fargo · · Freemont, VA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

I was wondering the same thing. I am here on a trip with my girlfriend and we love it here. I am seriously considering moving to the west from Virginia. It is good to know that the economy is improving.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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