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Mugu Slab
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Classic Dihedral T 

Classic Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Classic Dihedral, at Mugu Slab. In...

Description 

Obvious right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall.

The most unusual feature of this route is that is once ended near a fixed anchor near the top of the wall. During the past decade, the dihedral receded 5 feet (a 5-foot wide column of rock collapsed, moving the dihedral 5 feet to the left). Now, it is nearly impossible to reach the fixed anchor. It is possible to climb to a wide ledge above and then walk off; however, this is sketchy enough that one might decide to simply down-climb and back clean the route.

Location 

Bisects the wall, with a clean slab on the right and a fractured wall on the left.

Protection 

Tiny to 2-inches.

The crack is so loose that all of the gear is sketchy (many cam placements simply open the crack wider when weighted).


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 5, 2009

I climbed this route about 8 years ago, after the collapse of part of the dihedral. All of the gear was scary. And as mentioned in the route description, the walk off was daunting enough that I actually chose to downclimb the route, cleaning my gear as I went.