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(3) Red Wall
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Anastasia TR 
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Classic Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Year round
Page Views: 3,446
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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BETA PHOTO: Full route top roped from the top of the 5.10c ext...

Description 

This short but "classic" crack has purportedly become harder over the years due to glossing from continuous traffic. Nevertheless it is still a great climb with quality moves. A nice feature of this climb is the overhanging rock above it protects the climb from rain.

The climb begins on a small platform. Ascend a wide crack that quickly narrows to finger size. Top out using the crack or traverse left onto face holds.

Rappel or do 5.1 walk off to the left.

Protection 

Single set of cams with doubles in the finger sizes. Nice big (questionable) chains at top.


Photos of Classic Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Greg on Classic Crack
Greg on Classic Crack
Classic Crack
BETA PHOTO: Classic Crack
See? Classic...
See? Classic...
Starting up the 5.10c section, which has 4 bolts for people interested in leading it.
BETA PHOTO: Starting up the 5.10c section, which has 4 bolts f...
Act a fool on classic crack. good job Kohl.
Act a fool on classic crack. good job Kohl.
The full route side view.
The full route side view.
Classic crack.
Classic crack.
Working the first crux section right at the flare.
BETA PHOTO: Working the first crux section right at the flare.
The 3 pitch picture
The 3 pitch picture
Rhys Schreck (age 9) negotiating the beginning moves of 5.10c above Classic Crack.
Rhys Schreck (age 9) negotiating the beginning mov...

Comments on Classic Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2006

Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 13, 2006

I wanted to add that the route can be TRed by scrambling in from the left (north) side.
By Jeffrey Struck
From: Portland
Aug 6, 2007

While there are "nice big chains" at the belay, I remember questioning the integrity of the bolts the last time I was up there. They are not threaded screw-ins (Rawl, Powers, etc.), but big button-heads that are simply hammered in. They may look huge from the outside, but I question how long the bolts actually are. Just because the heads of the bolts are big does not mean they are bomber! Does anyone know the history of these particular anchor bolts?

Otherwise, sweet route, especially if you link it with the short 10c above! Better anchors up there, if I remember right!

P.S. You can put in a piece or two to the left of the bolt anchor if top-roping.
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Jul 22, 2008

The anchors have been replaced.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Aug 5, 2009

Really fun. Too bad it's not 100 feet longer...
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 12, 2012

Fun route. If your jams are good you shouldn't worry about how slick people say this route is. That being said, if you try to stay in the crack all the way to the top your feet will be on some buttery rock before you make it to the ledge. A great on-sight opportunity.
By Rich C
Nov 11, 2012

The first move is a little nervy and that seemed to be the only "slick holds". regardless they are big feet. great finger movement through the middle section. if this was 5 times longer it would be an indian creek mega classic. The routes above it seemed fun too.
By berl
From: Oregon
Nov 12, 2012

Rich- you climbed it at one of the best times of the year for friction: on a cool dry day after there's been enough rain to wash off all the grease and chalk from the summer. Late summer is a different story!
By Vince Schreck
Jul 19, 2013

Climbed this on top rope the other day with my son Rhys (age 9). He rocked it, I fell more than him. It feels like a HARD 5.9, especially if you're not used to cracks. In a relatively short distance, it has a little bit of everything: hands, fingers, off-width, and some face climbing thrown in near the top. Classic!