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BETA PHOTO: Classic Crack
This short but "classic" crack has purportedly become harder over the years due to glossing from continuous traffic. Nevertheless it is still a great climb with quality moves. A nice feature of this climb is the overhanging rock above it protects the climb from rain.
The climb begins on a small platform. Ascend a wide crack that quickly narrows to finger size. Top out using the crack or traverse left onto face holds.
Rappel or do 5.1 walk off to the left.
Single set of cams with doubles in the finger sizes. Nice big (questionable) chains at top.
Greg on Classic Crack
Act a fool on classic crack. good job Kohl.
The 3 pitch picture
|Comments on Classic Crack
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2006
Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick.
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 13, 2006
I wanted to add that the route can be TRed by scrambling in from the left (north) side.
|By Jeffrey Struck|
Aug 6, 2007
While there are "nice big chains" at the belay, I remember questioning the integrity of the bolts the last time I was up there. They are not threaded screw-ins (Rawl, Powers, etc.), but big button-heads that are simply hammered in. They may look huge from the outside, but I question how long the bolts actually are. Just because the heads of the bolts are big does not mean they are bomber! Does anyone know the history of these particular anchor bolts?
Otherwise, sweet route, especially if you link it with the short 10c above! Better anchors up there, if I remember right!
P.S. You can put in a piece or two to the left of the bolt anchor if top-roping.
|By Wolfgang Braun|
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Jul 22, 2008
The anchors have been replaced.
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Aug 5, 2009
Really fun. Too bad it's not 100 feet longer...
|By Bryan Hall|
From: Portland, Oregon
Jun 12, 2012
Fun route. If your jams are good you shouldn't worry about how slick people say this route is. That being said, if you try to stay in the crack all the way to the top your feet will be on some buttery rock before you make it to the ledge. A great on-sight opportunity.
|By Rich C|
Nov 11, 2012
The first move is a little nervy and that seemed to be the only "slick holds". regardless they are big feet. great finger movement through the middle section. if this was 5 times longer it would be an indian creek mega classic. The routes above it seemed fun too.
Nov 12, 2012
Rich- you climbed it at one of the best times of the year for friction: on a cool dry day after there's been enough rain to wash off all the grease and chalk from the summer. Late summer is a different story!