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Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 
Unsorted Routes:

Classic Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,895
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on May 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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Looking down the fun start of the classic corner

Description 

Wow, this climb is pure joy. It is aesthetic, has fun jams, and good pro. Climb the prominent dihedral that first angles left, then angles right around a corner and out of sight. As you get near the top of the dihedral, you can step left into a bigger and easier crack/gully; or continue in the dihedral and escape with an easy off-width move. Belay at the top of the crack/gully using some smaller cams, or move higher and belay at the top of a flat ledge using a double sling around a big rock and some small cams. The total climb is about 100 feet.

To exit, down climb a short 4th class section and walk down the big ravine (South-West of the belay).

GETTING THERE: From the 1st picnic area at Red Rock Spring head West up the hill and to the right of Jabba The Hut Rock (the first band of rocks). Then, turn left (South) and scramble up a blonde 4th class ramp. This will place you roughly at the base of the Classic Corner.

Protection 

Set of nuts and cams to 3"


Photos of Classic Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Jamming up through the middle section of the Class...
Jamming up through the middle section of the Class...
BETA PHOTO
Ryan on 'Classic Corner'. and yes it IS this steep...
Ryan on 'Classic Corner'. and yes it IS this steep...
The classic corner of calico
The classic corner of calico
Classic Corner, one of the great single pitch clim...
Classic Corner, one of the great single pitch clim...

Comments on Classic Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 3, 2014
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
May 25, 2005

Loved the route! It was a nice, worthwhile ,after work sort of climb,as it was completely shaded in the late afternoon, with a short, fairly straightforward approach and a friendly walk off. I used med-large nuts and some small cams up to a #3. I felt there was one "reachy" crux move approx. 25 feet or so up for this 5'2 woman(I abruptly blurted "Watch me!") ,but move was well protected, as was the rest of the climb. This climb left me smiling after being so miserable at work all day.Thanks to whoever put this route up!
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic route following the varnished crack; anytime you think it's getting a bit thin just throw some gear in the crack! New guidebook rates this climb 5.7 but we felt it would be closer to 5.8 for sure.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Feb 5, 2009

I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons.
By Ron Graham
Feb 26, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route for a new 5.8 leader because the steep, smooth and slippery varnished face lets you take falls in many places without incurring any injuries other than to your pride. Also, there are multiple options for topping out; one option is to head left across the face around bulging rocks at the top, while another is to grab the rocks and pull over them. My favorite place to belay followers from is on top of those rocks because you can look down most of the length of the climb as you belay people up. A safe anchor can be built at that point with #4 and #5 cams and a slung chockstone in the big crack behind the bulge.
By Jeremy Taylor (JT)
From: NV
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great area to be when it is just too windy any where else, (like all of the month of March) :(
Supper cool route and defiantly 5.8 crack.
Great to see you Mark.
By Jay Holland
From: Henderson, NV
Sep 30, 2011

This climb would get 5 stars if it were longer. Great corner and a close approach. Perfect climb if you only have a little time.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wish this climb went on for 1,000 feet!
By Patrick Mulligan
Apr 22, 2012

Just did the again for the .... time. I had forgotten how classic this thing really is. One of the best single pitches of 5.8 anywhere!
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A little too awkward to be much fun. Lots of graffiti and foot traffic from day hikers, but you never get far away from your packs.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2014

One of the guidebooks noted a set of singles to #2 friend or something like that. I launched with a similar rack and though, "how bad could it be" Turns out, it's sneaky slick for the first third of the route with kinda smallish gear. I would have gladly brought more stoppers and more 1/2" cams had I known. My recommendation would be to A) bring a set of doubles to 2.5" and maybe a single 3" for the top. B) Actually look at the crack for gear selection before just launching up it (cough) C) Don't fiddle, just run it out but I suspect that's not PC to say.

Pretty flat ledge up near the top and beyond a small bush for a good belay. Belay will take anything you've got left from 1/2" to 3". Easy walk off, climber's left.
By Micah Kurtz
Nov 3, 2014

Face hold relief makes this an easy 5.8, it would be 5.5 if it were in Yosemite!