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Classic Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Far From The Madding Crowd S 
Grace Poole S 
Heathcliff S 
Jane Eyre T,S 

Classic Cliff  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...

Description 

Classic Cliff is located at the lower end of Upper Dream Canyon. Several routes were established here in 2004 by Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela. Most are sport routes, but one requires some gear in addition to the bolts.

L->R:

A. Grace Poole, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Jane Eyre, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
C. Heathcliff, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts
D. Far From The Madding Crowd, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There 

Classic Cliff is located at the lower end of Upper Dream Canyon. It can be reached by hiking downstream from Werner's Legacy about 100 yards or by descending a steep trail in a grassy gully directly north of the wall. It is located at a bend in the creek with a large dead tree. Another approach is from Boulder Canyon, as for the Wall of Winter Warmth, continuing upstream another 200 yards or so. It is across the creek and a little upstream from the Serenity Spire. Most of the left side of the wall has the creek flowing under it, but the routes on the middle and right are easily accessible. The cliff is roughly west-facing. The river noise can make communication difficult, so be prepared, particularly on Grace Poole and Jane Eyre.

Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout... used with permission.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Classic Cliff

Heathcliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Boulder : ... : Classic Cliff
Toward the right end of the wall, start at a good flake and climb through some bulges to a small roof. Surmount the roof, moving right to the shared slab finish of Far From The Madding Crowd.Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout... used with permission....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Classic Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Classic Cliff, middle. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
BETA PHOTO: Classic Cliff, middle. Photo by Vaino Kodas; used...
Classic Cliff, right side. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
BETA PHOTO: Classic Cliff, right side. Photo by Vaino Kodas; ...

Comments on Classic Cliff Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Sep 8, 2006
The routes on this crag may not be long, but they are continuous. The first 30' of all routes being essentially devoid of easy moves and rests.

A good cliff for those who dis Boulder Canyon for its soft grades. Some sort of logarithmic grading scale seemed to be in effect here -- the 10d, while hard for a sport climb of that rating in BC, was in the ballpark, the 11bs felt like total sandbags (Jane Eyre brought to mind a harder Conans), while we felt the 11c contained perhaps six moves of that grade separated by harder moves. Maybe, it was just a high gravity day.

But don't let my incompetence stop you from visiting this quality crag. The left two routes are particularly worthy.