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The Crow's Nest
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Woman Overboard 

Clambake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 8/04
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: clambake and trad's nest...

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A slightly deceptive and fun line that might feel a bit stiff for the grade. At the end of the day, I was positive this was a 5.10.

Scramble up onto a ledge to clip the first bolt right of the discontinuous crack. Climb up decent holds in the crack past two more bolts and you'll find yourself at the crux, your choice of slopers and pumpy underclings with a clip in the midst of it. Move left after the 4th bolt to gain a rest and follow jugs up the crack to the chains.


Location 

This is the 2nd bolt line to the left of Mutiny on the buttress to the right of the gully.


Protection 

5 bolts to chains



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Mark Sprague 8/04

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This route has fun moves, the only issue is the bolts should all be at least a foot to the left. If the bolts were placed more left the route would feel more natural, in my opinion.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Why do you think they should be to the left, Matt? My intention was to have them so you could climb the route in the most natural way, have reasonable clips for people of all sizes and safe falls. I'm always happy to hear how I could have done something better. In thinking about the bolt positions you also have to take in to account rock quality and how the rope will run and maybe not encroaching on another nearby route.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I think that because the route climbs more naturally to the left and keeps it at the .9+ grade there. If you follow the weakness to the left of the bolts you have to clip two or three bolts leaning back right pretty far and detracts from the climb a bit. It seems the rock is solid but I could be wrong about that. It mentions this in the new guide so people do know to stay left, the move are really fun though!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

No biggie, I was just a bit surprised. One always climbed it with the bolts a little to your right, but I never remember any significant reaches to them.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Yeah maybe I climbed it wrong, but its just how it seemed to me.

By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Yeah, I was so far to the left I think I might have been off route. Clips were a full arms length to the right, but any closer to the bolts felt like hard .10. I ended up standing on the shelf just below the right angling crack and then following that up.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I'm 5.3" and did not notice anything strange with the bolt placement...