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Clam Chowder 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Bruce Foster, Jim Wood, and Clark Jacobs, May 1973
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This route lies to the left of Surprise, although the two climbs share a belay ledge at the top of pitch 1. For pitch 1, start 20' left of Surprise and solo up the face. After a 5.7 move near the ground, the difficulty eases up. Pitch 2 (5.10A) is sustained, protected by bolts, with some exciting runouts. Pitch 3 (5.8) eases up after about 20' and leads to the top. This climb goes into the shade in mid-afternoon.

Protection 

bolts plus a light rack for the belay at the top of pitch 2, and for the upper part of pitch 3


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This is a good route. Despite being a bit runout, the holds tend to always be there when you need them. Second pitch is not that bad.
By Brandon R.
Sep 25, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I felt the third pitch was more serious than the others. After clipping an older bolt, you then climb a thin, flaring, and somewhat insecure crack (not protectable) for about twenty feet to the next bolt. Don't fall here. If you've gotten this far, you shouldn't need any gear for the last bit of easy crack.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

Really fun route. Pitch one is essentially a free solo, since there is no pro, but once you get up a ways it becomes very easy with a virtual staircase leading to the anchor. Pitch 2 felt easier than the 5.9 pitch on Serpentine, although the bolts are much farther apart. I would agree with the comment about the thin crack above the rusty bolt on pitch 3, although my partner climbed to the right of it and said it was much easier.
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Jun 5, 2012

Clark J. and I replaced the 1/4" bolt on the third pitch. Great route with pro where you need it and runouts on easier terrain.