|Please respect the mining claims in this area.|
P1. WI3 M3. Climb up the mixed runnel into the big, right-facing corner and belay in a protected alcove with rock gear. The gear can be a bit hard to find.
P2. WI3 M3. Pull out of the right-facing corner and climb up the slabby ice into a chimney that protects OK.
Park at the McCullough Gulch TH. The approach is about +1 hour. Hike up the road, once at the mining claim you should be able to see the route at about the 12,000 foot level. DO NOT TRESPASS in this area or you will be shot. Keep hiking on the road past the mining claim till the road turns into a trail and there are no more no trespassing sings. Bushwhack down to some beaver ponds and skirt them along the west side to reach the base of the fun scree and talus slope. At this point, ascend up the slope eastward angling towards the climb.
To descend off the climb, traverse east and go down the prominent, boxed couloir, beware of avy conditions in this area.
A light alpine rack with pitons and 3-4 16cm & 13cm ice screws. Not much pro on the route, but it's there when you need it.
Looking down the 2 pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up halfway up the first pitch.
From: Denver, CO
Oct 8, 2013
rating: WI3 M3
Great route! Fun solid climbing.
As of yesterday, 10/7/2013, there were three nice long pitches of climbing (550') with plenty of ice. The protection was quite good but sometimes a bit tricky. Bring a few pins. The descent gully was iced up enough that we opted to do one rappel and a pitch of belayed down climbing. Perhaps overly cautious, but I think warranted given the incredible amount of loose rock.
Also, while I don't recommend trespassing, we met Walter, the guy who works the small family mining claim near the trailhead, and he's a very nice guy. I wouldn't hesitate to knock on his door if you need to call out for rescue services, or if you just want an interesting chat.