Claim Jumper  WI3 M3

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  WI3 M3 [details] FA:  Local Alpinist Season:  Fall Submitted By:  Taylor-B. on Apr 1, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Claim Jumper is on the right with the descent coul...

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Description 

P1. WI3 M3. Climb up the mixed runnel into the big, right-facing corner and belay in a protected alcove with rock gear. The gear can be a bit hard to find.

P2. WI3 M3. Pull out of the right-facing corner and climb up the slabby ice into a chimney that protects OK.

Location 

Park at the McCullough Gulch TH. The approach is about +1 hour. Hike up the road, once at the mining claim you should be able to see the route at about the 12,000 foot level. DO NOT TRESPASS in this area or you will be shot. Keep hiking on the road past the mining claim till the road turns into a trail and there are no more no trespassing sings. Bushwhack down to some beaver ponds and skirt them along the west side to reach the base of the fun scree and talus slope. At this point, ascend up the slope eastward angling towards the climb.

To descend off the climb, traverse east and go down the prominent, boxed couloir, beware of avy conditions in this area.

Protection 

A light alpine rack with pitons and 3-4 16cm & 13cm ice screws. Not much pro on the route, but it's there when you need it.

Photos of Claim Jumper Slideshow

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Looking down the 2 pitch.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up halfway up the first pitch.