Claim Jumper 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | FFA Peter Croft & Tami Knight |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | David Trippett on Nov 28, 2007 |
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Description Claim Jumper is another Nightmare classic, as are most of the routes there. Claim Jumper starts just to the right of Perspective on at a steep slab with a couple of bolts. Ascend to just below a steep crack with a fixed pin. The crux is just after the pin, although getting to the pin is an ordeal in itself. Hope that the pin doesn't pull if you whip on it. After the crux, climb to the left into a thin crack that appears much more difficult than it is and ascend to the shared anchors of Perspective. There are a few ways to climb Claim Jumper. The new McLane guide gives this route .11d....and some of the old guides give it .12b. Depending on your height and how you do it, it could be either, therefore I'll suggest .12a.
Location Just right of Perspective starting on the smooth, angular feature with two three obvious bolts.
Protection Nothing bigger than Camalot #1. Heavy on small cams and stoppers. Draws for the start.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Aug 4, 2009 rating: 5.11d
| Very fun climbing. While it had multiple cruxes, none felt as hard as Sentry Box. |
By Jonathan Guy From: Bay Area, CA Aug 26, 2012
| a bomber #2 camalot can be had from the stance after the piton. super fun route with surprising cruxes. |
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