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Nightmare Rock
Routes Sorted
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And Metal for All S 
Big Daddy Overhang T 
Big daddy's Ramp T 
Claim Jumper T 
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 
Endodontic Treatment, The T 
Grand Daddy Overhang T 
Hypertension T 
It's a Potpourri! T,S 
Morpheus S 
Perspective T 
Presto S 
Sentry Box T 
Short Sentry T 
Who's Your Daddy? T 

Claim Jumper 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA Peter Croft & Tami Knight
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Claim Jumper is another Nightmare classic, as are most of the routes there.

Claim Jumper starts just to the right of Perspective on at a steep slab with a couple of bolts. Ascend to just below a steep crack with a fixed pin. The crux is just after the pin, although getting to the pin is an ordeal in itself. Hope that the pin doesn't pull if you whip on it. After the crux, climb to the left into a thin crack that appears much more difficult than it is and ascend to the shared anchors of Perspective.

There are a few ways to climb Claim Jumper. The new McLane guide gives this route .11d....and some of the old guides give it .12b. Depending on your height and how you do it, it could be either, therefore I'll suggest .12a.


Location 

Just right of Perspective starting on the smooth, angular feature with two three obvious bolts.


Protection 

Nothing bigger than Camalot #1. Heavy on small cams and stoppers. Draws for the start.



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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Very fun climbing. While it had multiple cruxes, none felt as hard as Sentry Box.

By Jonathan Guy
From: Bay Area, CA
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

a bomber #2 camalot can be had from the stance after the piton. super fun route with surprising cruxes.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

after doing sentry box this route was somewhat of a letdown. i have no idea how this could get 4 stars. unaesthetic, awkward, greasy climbing, sometimes on not great rock, make up about 2/3 of the route. the finger crack above is pretty good, but easy. there are at least a 100 better finger cracks in squamish.

i was kind of surprised that a lot of people call it 11d. i thought claim jumper was a bit harder than sentry box, but i might have been pretty tired at that point. also, i always find weird greasy open handed barndoor laybacking kind of tough.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 7, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

a really fun route- suits the strong face climber. spicy, i thought- make sure to be solid and do not assume the pin will hold a fall. good gear where it matters.

I took a rack to a green camalot, doubled up on most of it and was pretty happy. no stoppers, although you could certainly place a few if you wanted to.