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City Park
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 3.4 from 34 votes
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986 |
Page Views: | 21,104 total · 109/month |
Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in 1986. It has a storied history of free ascents and attempts. Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used prosthetics that he designed and fabricated, completed a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 1990s. Mikey Schaeffer made the first redpoint ascent in the contemporary accepted style in 2006, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder that leads to the base of the crack. The crack is consistently difficult until it relents at the top, although a left-jogging section above an undercling is particularly challenging.
P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed approach pitch to Slow Children can also be accessed via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing and an anchor on a ledge below the initial corner of Slow Children.
P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. Another option above Slow Children is the excellent Tommy's Sandbox, a fine .11a outing with nicely varied climbing.
P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed approach pitch to Slow Children can also be accessed via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing and an anchor on a ledge below the initial corner of Slow Children.
P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. Another option above Slow Children is the excellent Tommy's Sandbox, a fine .11a outing with nicely varied climbing.
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