From Albion Idaho
Mar 3, 2013
Kirk speaks the truth. There is a life time of climbing at the City. People tend to climb of 5% of the available routes. I try to avoid Elephant, Bath, Parking Lot, and Bloody Fingers when the hoards are flocking. Don't believe me? Go hike out to Beef Jello and look at how many quality routes and rock you pass. No one will be climbing on it.
Its not like Yellow Wall is a secret, but I've had the place to my self every time I've gone out there. Another vastly under used area is Castle Rocks. Much like the City 95% of the traffic in Castles goes to Castle Rock.
So in summary (and I'm just making these numbers up based on my observations) on any given day 80% of all visitors go to the City of Rocks and 20% go to Castles. 90% of the people at the City will be climbing on the above mentioned formations add in Anteater, Practice, and Morning Glory Spire. 90% of the visitors to the Castles go to Castle Rock.
I don't lose sleep over the added publicity in Magazines because both the City and Castles have been photo'd and reported on many times before. The routes that get the coverage are the popular ones on the popular rocks. That said, there is still lots of room for development. There is a lot of rock at the the City.
How much ink has Yosemite gotten? Yet when I was there, if you stay away from the trade routes like the Nose, Zodiak, and Northwest face of Half Dome, you'll be lonesome.