City of Rocks in October

So I'm thinking seriously about a trip to City of Rocks the first week of October. I've never been, and it looks like an outstanding destination. My only concern is that it might be freezing and/or snowing/wet. Can any locals shed some light on what I can expect weather-wise that time of year?

Also, I assume that since it's probably not the height of the season, camping shouldn't be a huge problem. Does that sound right?

Finally, if you think it'll be worth it weather-wise, what guidebook should I get?

Weather is dry like SLC but 10-15 degrees cooler.If it cold just chase the sun and you will be fine (assuming there is sun). You won't have a problem getting a camping spot. As for guidebooks, I haven't seen a good one. I printed a boatload of stuff off MP.

What puts you at CoR in October?

Spring and Fall are the big seasons at City. See if there are spots available to camp online. There is BLM land if those spots are full.

I wouldn't worry about weather too much. Tends to be dry with a chance of afternoon thunderstorms. But more often than not, it'll stay dry all day.

As far as guidebooks, go with the Bingham guidebook. It'll be your best option trying to figure out where the rocks are and which approaches to take.

Thanks for the info!

I'll be on a 6-week trip starting mid-september. Gonna hit Colorado first, and then meeting the fiance for a week. From what I can tell from the MP page, CoR seems like the perfect place for her and me--lots of moderates and fun climbing, both trad and sport. She's flying, so we can go anywhere, but I've basically narrowed it down to CoR and JTree, neither of which I've been to. I think either would be awesome, but CoR looks like it has the better climbing for what we want to do.

Any suggestion as to where she should fly in to? SLC?

SLC is the closest major airport for sure and its an easy drive although there is a fair bit of (good) dirt road you will encounter. Another camping option if you want showers is the Castle Rock State Park campground although cost is a bit steep for camping. The CoR water is pretty crappy so fill your jugs up at the visitor center before going in. You may as well climb in SLC since its on your way from Colorado. I love the rock quality at CoR but its literally in the middle of nowhere which is great if that's what you want but at my age I can't climb all day for a week straight so having a diversion is nice (and my wife likes a shower occasionally). If you need any SLC info just ask.

FYI, The Castle Rocks campground is NOT located at the park of the same name. It is the Smoky Mountain campground south of the state park proper and south of the road to CoR. Smoky Mountain

There is a bunkhouse at the CRSP entrance that can be reserved, but not a good option for a couple.

My take is the water quality at CoR is just fine. The pump at the top of the Breadloaves has always produced excellent water. The one at Bath Rock used to be rusty, but they have repaired it and the quality is much improved.

There is a general store in Almo for limited groceries (Tracy's) and a choice of two places to eat. Visit Rock City for pizza and beer. Bring your trunks for the developed hot springs, four different temperature pools.

Great info all around! I'm sure it will make more sense once I pick up the guidebook. Thanks, everyone; keep it coming!

ddriver wrote: There is a bunkhouse at the CRSP entrance that can be reserved, but not a good option for a couple.

Picture a building that has two living room’s side by side. One is full of bunk beds, queen beds, and twin beds. The park has changed the way it sells the beds. Before I could buy one bed and risk sharing the building with 7 other strangers. (Think Camp Muir of Climbers Ranch in the Tetons.) But now you get the whole bunk house for $106 per night and it sleeps 8 people. Next to it is the ranch house and you can rent the whole thing for $159 per night and it sleeps 12.

Charlie S wrote: As far as guidebooks, go with the Bingham guidebook. It'll be your best option trying to figure out where the rocks are and which approaches to take.

I didn’t know there was another book aside from Dave’s?
amazon.com/City-Rocks-Idaho…
This one is the best in my opinion.

Almost forgot, bring a 70 meter rope if you can. Seems that a lot of routes require a 70 to get back to the ground like Elephant Rock and also keep in mind that many trad routes need a gear belay so don't use all your gear getting to the top.

And whatever you do stay away from Steinfell's Dome and Theater of Shadows unless you want a reallllllyyyy easy multi pitch slab climb and don't mind waiting for hours behind a line of people.

Thanks for the heads-up, rging. I have heard that one sixty will only lead to disaster at the City. I was planning on carrying both of my sixties around, because I don't have a seventy.

All this info is gold. I assume it will all make a lot more sense geography-wise once I get the book and actually show up the first day. The hot springs are a huge draw, and I didn't even know about them! Are they easy to find and/or discussed in the guidebook (which I'm ordering soon)?

This website forum is awesome when you actually need beta like this. Just gotta ignore the whole internet-crazy thing. Thanks, everyone!

The hot springs are commercial (Durfee I believe is the name) and right by the only paved road in Almo. Its all concrete and chain link and looks a bit ghetto, but once you're inside its really quite enyoyable. There are little dressing rooms and a shower to rinse off afterwards. There is a nice sized pool at about 85 or 90 degrees for swimming laps or playing ball. Still missing the Oakley springs but at least you don't to drive so far.

I use two 60s as well. Most routes are straight enough that the second can trail it so not a huge deal until you try to deploy 180 feet more rope than you need.

When you go to the hot spring remember not to stick you head under water or this could happen to you.

Brain eating ameba

rging wrote:When you go to the hot spring remember not to stick you head under water or this could happen to you. Brain eating ameba

Oh dear christ, thanks for freaking me out!!!

Thanks, ddriver!

My last trip to COR was in the first week of October a few years ago. It snowed for 4 days until we bailed to Moab!

Wished we had brought ice tools. Hopefully this October will be nicer.

John McNamee wrote:My last trip to COR was in the first week of October a few years ago. It snowed for 4 days until we bailed to Moab! Wished we had brought ice tools. Hopefully this October will be nicer.

Yikes! I suppose if the forecast is bleak, we can just head straight to Moab. As I noted above, JTree is our other option. But the chances are probably just as high that it is unclimbably hot there.

In the shade in JTree in early October is usually quite pleasant. COR can be pretty cold in October. Certainly climbable if the sun is out, just be prepared for cold camping.

Alec32 wrote: Yikes! I suppose if the forecast is bleak, we can just head straight to Moab. As I noted above, JTree is our other option. But the chances are probably just as high that it is unclimbably hot there.

From SLC, you have plenty of options. COR if you want. Moab/Indian Creek, Zion if you want big walls.

I usually recommend October.

There is a big swing in temps between CoR, SLC, Moab, St. George and Vegas (Red Rocks). Its about an eight hour spread between CoR and Red Rocks so watch the weather and pick your temperature range.

Alec32, thanks so much for starting this thread. We are also considering an October trip to CoR and weren't sure if the weather would be cooperative.

rging, as a team setting out to do their first multi-pitch climb would you still suggest we stay away from Steinfell's Dome and Theater of Shadows or are they just right?

Thanks to everyone else for providing great info that I found very helpful, too!

shan1203 wrote:rging, as a team setting out to do their first multi-pitch climb would you still suggest we stay away from Steinfell's Dome and Theater of Shadows or are they just right?

Both are completely bolted including all belay stations so its pretty much a no brainer. Take 19 draws and a couple of lockers for the belay chains and you are set. They are much easier than rated with the exception of the one pitch on Steinfell's which I would say is accurate at 5.8. Its protected very well though. Take two ropes and you can't get into much trouble even if you try. Just expect a wait if you do it on a weekend no matter how early you start. If you do only one I would recommend Theater of Shadows. Its a few pitches shorter and has a really nice rappel from the top.

That is fantastic info, thanks so much rging :)