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Citadel Crag
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Citadel Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,039
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great roof crack! Follow the thin crack which diagonals up and to the right towards the roof. Look out for face features on this section of the climb. Climb up to and through the perfect hands roof, and into the hand crack above. The crack then peters out before the next roof, forcing you to climb delicately. After pulling the final roof scramble up the last 15 feet and set an anchor.

Location 

On the south face of Citadel Crag, look for the large fin/roof on the left end of the crag.

Protection 

Small stoppers/RPs through #3 Camalot. Doubles in #0.5 to #2 Camalot could be helpful but not necessary. After the crack peters out above the first roof, small stoppers will give you some protection. There are several large blocks at the top which can be slung as a top anchor. Walk off to the East (climber's right).


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By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 19, 2012

Climbed this great route today, there are two shiny 3/8" bolts at the top for a rap anchor.
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Aug 26, 2012

Good roof climbing on this one. The gear is tricky below the second roof, but it's good if you use the correct pod for a purple or green Camalot. No need for small nuts.
By mika burns
From: laramie
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There are some nice rings at the top. The bolt on climber's right is a little loose but still good. This climb is really fun.
By bart cubrich 1
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can leave the RPs and small stoppers on the ground if you want. Can be protected with noting smaller than #0.4 pretty safely.