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Another fine friction route that climbs the beautiful arete right of Condecender. In it's current condition this is a spicy climb but is only reminiscent of the first ascent when Cris Ellms bouldered the entire arete with no gear! Later another party, unaware of this placed two bolts on lead, in my opinion making it repeatable.
From the ground boulder up past a bolt to another bolt at a good stance, aim for a pin then climb a thin crack linking with Consolation Prize's second pitch. Belay From P2 on C. Prize
Alternatively you can climb the chimney corner just to the right of the arete then step left to the second bolt. This is the start to The Horrifying Ear (5.5) and is a good way to top rope the initial boulder problem start.
About 20 feet north of Condescender the obvious spicey bolted arete.
Standard light rack, not much for gear on the first half of the route.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2011
a second bolt ? I placed only one, at the start. Clipping the pin at groundfall zone. A fine climb anyway.