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This is a classic route, maybe not "Get A Life" but definitely in the upper tier of Momument 5.11s. It has lots of Indian Creek style splitters and some true desert flavor to keep things exciting.
P1. Start immediately right of a right-facing corner in the lower left side of the huge cleft. Climb on thin gear and thought provoking 5.9 to the sandy ledge. Work you way up & around some large loose plates (5.6) to the nice splitter above and on to a nice ledge. 5.10-, +/- 100'.
P2. From this belay, work your way horizontally to the right on the bedding seam for 30' and then fire up the thin corner above. Watching your rope managment, climb this cruxy R rated 12' (5.11 b/c) to some easy face climbing and on to the beautiful, thin hands corner that marks the middle of this route. 5.11+, +/-120'.
P3. This is another great pitch with an exposed finish! Climb a sweet corner above the belay till making a careful mantle to the ledge at the base of the overhanging maw. Wiggle, worm, & fight up this difficult OW on great stone. Exciting and strenous. 5.11, +/-60'.
Descend with one seventy meter making three rappels to the ground.
10 minutes past the Irishman's Temple, this route climbs the huge cleft in the middle of the Skin Industries Wall. It is 100' to the looker's left of Skin Industies.
Doubles from a #0 (purple) Metolius to #4 C4, 1 #5 C4, triples in the #2 (yellow) Metolius to #2 Camalots. Bring a small selection of nuts, lots of full length runners, and a 70 meter rope.
Above the 1st crux.
Cleaning things up a touch for the send.
Medium reds and a gold at the top.
|Comments on Cirqus Voltaire
Feb 17, 2012
Real sweet line on mostly great rock!