Circus Trick Right
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BETA PHOTO: Big move!
SDS on the big edge at the bottom of the arete. Make thuggy moves up and right. Heel hooks may help the swing. As you establish underneath the lip, make a big move out right then move back left to the bigger lip. Press it out and mark 5 points. Absolutely classic.
On the Chaos Boulder, opposite side from "Chaos"
From: moab, utah
Jun 7, 2008
rating: V6 7A
The problem described is actually the right variation of Circus Trick, the "Super" version goes up to the big lip via a wild dyno from the good holds below the roof.