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This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long. Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft. This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.
Make a some what scary rap from a small tree. Will it hold? It did for us...
This roof is located in an alcove on the east side of Anteater. The easiest approach is between Morning Glory and Anteater.
Gear to #2 camalot, doubles in the .5-1.5" range. Bolted anchor.
BETA PHOTO: sweet jams under the roof
By David D.
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You can backup the tree with a #3 camalot while belaying the second up... but eventually, you gotta rap off that little dead tree... Way scary...
By steve lindsay
Jun 6, 2010
There are now bolts above the dead tree.