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Anteater - East
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Circus Direct 
Circus Roof 
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Circus Roof 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1983
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008
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The route...

Description 

This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long. Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft. This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.

Make a some what scary rap from a small tree. Will it hold? It did for us...


Location 

This roof is located in an alcove on the east side of Anteater. The easiest approach is between Morning Glory and Anteater.


Protection 

Gear to #2 camalot, doubles in the .5-1.5" range. Bolted anchor.



Photos of Circus Roof Slideshow Add Photo
sweet jams under the roof
BETA PHOTO: sweet jams under the roof
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By David D.
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

You can backup the tree with a #3 camalot while belaying the second up... but eventually, you gotta rap off that little dead tree... Way scary...

By steve lindsay
Jun 6, 2010

There are now bolts above the dead tree.