|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 110'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Rob Robinson and Kirk Brode, 2002|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Mekolites on Mar 20, 2007|
|Comments on Circus Circus||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rob Robinson
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
This spectacular routes wends through an intimidating band of massive overhangs. It is NOT for the faint of heart, and it is NOT for the "up and coming" 5.8 leader. You should be a SOLID 5.9 leader before attempting this route.
Be sure to place enough gear on the first pitch traverse to adequately protect your second.
The technical crux is a small roof near the top of pitch two.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|No need to be afraid of this one. A little more involved than most T-Wall routes with the traverse and gear belay, but the gear is all there through the entire route. Should pose no problems for the experienced 5.8 trad climber.|
Nov 11, 2013
|Fixed a nut at the gear belay. Didn't have my nut tool to get it out. Earn the karma and send it back to me, use as part of your anchor, or poke it out and enjoy the early xmas gift.|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2014
A fun little adventure with a superb second pitch! Protects well - don't forget about your second on the intimidating but easy traverse! I thought the technical crux was getting into the immaculate dihedral at the start of p2. The roofs up top were fairly mellow and protection possibilities omnipresent.
With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground.