Circus Circus 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Rob Robinson and Kirk Brode, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Mekolites on Mar 20, 2007 |
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Description Circus Circus climbs two short pitches of great rock on the south side of T Wall. Pitch one: work up through broken blocky rock until you can step right under a very large roof. Traverse this roof finding the path of least resistance and don't forget your second. Set up a gear anchor when you reach a notch/alcove below a short roof with a dihedral above. Pitch two: step out under the roof and climb the dihedral through a series of roofs up high. Rap on newly installed rap rings.
Location Two pitch route located on the south end of T Wall, just past Where Lizards Go To Die. Look for a right angling ramp beneath a huge roof that leads to a alcove below a dihedral.
Protection Standard Rack. New rap rings at the top of pitch two.
| Comments on Circus Circus |
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By Rob Robinson
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| This spectacular routes wends through an intimidating band of massive overhangs. It is NOT for the faint of heart, and it is NOT for the "up and coming" 5.8 leader. You should be a SOLID 5.9 leader before attempting this route.
Be sure to place enough gear on the first pitch traverse to adequately protect your second.
The technical crux is a small roof near the top of pitch two. |
By Tom Fralich
From: Fresno, CA
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.8
| No need to be afraid of this one. A little more involved than most T-Wall routes with the traverse and gear belay, but the gear is all there through the entire route. Should pose no problems for the experienced 5.8 trad climber. |
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