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Circuit Breaker
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Circuit Breaker TR 

Circuit Breaker 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  TR, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,087
Submitted By: Will S on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Getting to the super positive fingers!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the classic crack boulder problems in the Valley. Approximately 20' tall with a short approach, flat landing, and easy walk off, this slightly leaning splitter finger crack is great for honing your thin fingercrack technique. Mostly first knuckle locks. Usually bouldered, but you could rig a TR if desired.

"Climb the beautiful splitter finger crack that angles up and left.
First 5 feet are the hardest by far." - ShaunG

Location 

Find the wooden cabin #73 in Curry. Walk behind it on the right side and head straight up the hill, gaining a faint trail that leads directly to the wall, intersecting right at this problem.

"Up the hill from curry village. This area is currently off limits b/c of rock fall." -ShaunG, in 2010

Protection 

Pads and spotters.


Photos of Circuit Breaker Slideshow Add Photo
Last move.. Great crack boulder for laps!
BETA PHOTO: Last move.. Great crack boulder for laps!
Circuit Breaker
BETA PHOTO: Circuit Breaker
First knuckle locks for 20'
BETA PHOTO: First knuckle locks for 20'
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Jeff on Circuit Breaker.
Jeff on Circuit Breaker.
Circuit Breaker, 11b fingers
BETA PHOTO: Circuit Breaker, 11b fingers
Greg on Circuit Breaker
Greg on Circuit Breaker

Comments on Circuit Breaker Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: USA
Aug 1, 2007

Be warned that the last move has spit off many unsuspecting climbers. While the move feels quite solid, I have heard of at least 3 different people taking the fall and fuck'n up their ankles.
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
May 31, 2010

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
May 10, 2011
rating: V2 5+

I'm a trad climber. What is this in YDS? I originally heard it was 5.10d but every conversion chart I've seen would place V2 at 5.11a/b to 5.11d, more consistently at 5.11+/5.11d.

Really fun. 3 move crux then it gets gradually easier. It leaves your finger tips feeling hot!
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Jun 18, 2011
rating: V2 5+

The Reid guide has it as 5.11b TR or solo. Really fun lil boulder problem!!!
By nathanwerner
Apr 16, 2015

I was looking for this problem a week ago and didn't think about the rockfall a couple years ago. Evidently it took out most of the cabins back there. Can anyone give some beta about how to find it now days? Thank you!
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Apr 16, 2015

There's a climbers trail leading up to the base of it. The trail begins a little bit to the east of the Old Curry Area (Root Canal, Kevin's Traverse, ect...) It's been a few years since i walked up there so I don't remember the specifics other than that.

There's also some more photos and a video on the route page under the bouldering section: ??
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2015

Good catch, Bryan. Since people haven't been finding this route in this area, I'll move it to Curry Village bouldering for now, and merge the newer version of this route's data into this original object.

I'll leave the Staircase Falls area though, so people can add the routes on the wall itself later.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jun 19, 2015

This is a fun problem and worth the short hike up. Low crux with a heady topout. Im told the line just left goes at 5.12.
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