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Loch Vale & uphill
Routes Sorted
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Alaskarado 
Brain Freeze 
Central Buttress T 
Circling Sharks T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Production, The T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Wham Couloir T 
Womb with a View T 
Unsorted Routes:

Circling Sharks 

M8+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus: M8+ [details]
FA: Aaron Montgomery and Ryan Vachon
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Aaron M on May 16, 2013

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Top of the first pitch.

Photo by John Dickey.

Description 

P1: This is a M6ish pitch that starts on frozen turf and then climbs a shallow corner until you move out a small roof and traverse right for 30 feet or so (50m).

P2: This is a M8ish pitch where you start moving up and right through a very large roof system and around a corner to a nice belay cave (30m).

P3: This is a M8ish pitch. Continue through the last chimney and roof on very licheniny rock (20m).

The climbing on the last two pitches is very physical with lots of tool torqueing and liebacking, and because of that, we really didn't know how to grade it. We would super love to have another group do it to get some perspective.

Location 

The line has three pitches and is Southwest-facing on an outcropping of rock on your way to the back side of the Sharkstooth. You would pass the buttress and look back to see it as you start to approach the talus on the way up. It is probably only 200 yards from the center of the valley though.

Protection 

The gear on the first pitch is "just ok", but the gear on the 2nd and 3rd pitch is all pretty good. You will need several #2s, #3s, and #4s to protect the last two pitches well, though.


Photos of Circling Sharks Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the last roof and heading to the top. Steep....
Pulling the last roof and heading to the top. Stee...
First pitch climbing.
First pitch climbing.
The belay "cave" between the second and third pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The belay "cave" between the second and third pitc...
Climbing the first pitch.  You can see the large roofs of the second and third pitch above.
BETA PHOTO: Climbing the first pitch. You can see the large r...
Summit shot!
Summit shot!
Here's the route.  Red is the first pitch.  Orange is pitches 2 and 3 (they could be combined, but there was a heap of weaving and fairly rough edges).  Yellow is a line that could be a fun direct-ish start (yet to be done).
BETA PHOTO: Here's the route. Red is the first pitch. Orange...

Comments on Circling Sharks Add Comment
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By RWV
May 16, 2013

Very straightforward lines. Pretty darn good quality rock. TONS of lichen on pitches 2 and 3 (spicy).