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Torre Barancio 
Torre Grand South Summit 
Torre Grande West Summit 
Torre Grande, North Summit 
Torre Inglese 
Torre Lusy 
Torre Quarta Alta 
Torre Quarta Bassa 
Torre Seconda (Second Tower) 

Cinque Torri 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Lat, Long: 46.5097, 12.0511 Map
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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2009

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Historic photo 1960. Paul Ross and Ralph Blain on ...

Description 

The Cinque Torri area of the Dolomites is a wonderful grouping of small towers uniquely situated between the impressive Croda da Lago mountains to the east and the grand south face of Tofana di Rozes to the west. The area offers a multitude of easy-to-access sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch traditional routes to the airy summits of the towers.
The biggest of these towers are the three summits of Torre Grande. At 2361 meters, the south summit of Torre Grande is the tallest. First climbed in 1927, the five-pitch route “Via Miriam” (V+ or 5.8+) is the classic route up the south face of the south summit.
Ascending the east face of the north summit of Torre Grande is a more modern (1959) six-pitch route called “Via Finlandia”, (VII- or 5. 10+).
The classic line up Torre Grande's west summit is the fun and easy four-pitch route “Via dale Guide” (IV or 5.5). First climbed in 1930, this route is obvious and easily viewed from the Rifugio Scoiattoli at the top of the ski lift and is a short five minute walk from the rifugio.


Getting There 

From the quaint mountain town of Cortina d' Ampezzo, the Cinque Torri group is only roughly a seven mile drive up the windy road of Falzarego Pass. You can either drive to the well-signed “5 Torri” parking area and, for 7 Euros one-way (2009), take the 5 minute ride up the ski lift to the Rif. Scoiattoli and then hike five minutes to the Cinque Torri. For another 7 Euros you can ride the lift down but it's an easy 20 minute hike down a good trail if you'd rather save that 7 Euros for some wine with dinner.
Alternatively, and free, you can turn off the Falzarego Pass road at the 112.2 km marker on the small, paved road up to the Rifugio Cinque Torri parking area and hike up for about 10 minutes to the climbing. This is a great way to access the route “Via Miriam” as you hike right under the south face of the south summit of Torre Grande.


Basecamp 

Hotels abound in Cortina d'Ampezza and it's a short drive (~10 miles) up to the Falzarego Pass from Cortina. Renting a car for your trip is probably the best way to go allowing you early starts for the sure-to-be-crowded classics in the Falzarego Pass area. I suspect taxis and buses can be easily obtained but I don't know for sure.
The rifugios in the area, Rif. Scoiattoli, Rif. Cinque Torri, Rif. Dibona and others near the pass offer a lower cost option of nightly lodging and are super close to the climbing. It also appears you can camp along the road to the Rif. Cinque Torri and along Falzarego Pass but I can't say for sure.


Season 

The area is pretty high in altitude and obviously a great ski destination in winter so late spring, summer and fall are best. The towers themselves are lower than the surrounding mountains and can be easily bailed off from so they are a good choice compared to other areas in the Falzarego Pass vicinity if weather looks iffy.


Beta 

The English-translated version of the book “Classic Dolomite Climbs” by Anette Kohler and Norbert Memmel (ISBN 0-89886-693-6) published by The Mountaineers of Seattle, WA, covers the classic multipitch routes of the Cinque Torri. Finding and English version of a book covering the sport climbs of the area might be difficult but I haven't looked. Perhaps try Chessler Books online.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cinque Torri:
North Face   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Torre Lusy
Via delle Guide   5.5     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Torre Grande West Summit
Via Normale   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Torre Quarta Bassa
Via Normale   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 165 feet   Torre Inglese
Northwest Corner   5.6     Trad, 300 feet   Torre Barancio
North Face   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Torre Barancio
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 530 feet   Torre Grand South Summit
Tinsemal   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Torre Quarta Alta
Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct)   5.10a/b     Trad, 8 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Torre Grand South Summit
East Face "Via Finlandia"   5.10b/c PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II   Torre Grande, North Summit
Franceschi   5.10d     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Torre Grand South Summit
Fandango   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Torre Grand South Summit
Nordica   5.12a     Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Torre Grand South Summit
Browse More Classics in Cinque Torri

Featured Route For Cinque Torri
First pitch of Via Normale on Torre Inglese in the Cinque Torri

Via Normale 5.6  International : Dolomites : ... : Torre Inglese
A great line, with good position and nifty, exposed moves up high, Via Normale on the Torre Inglese is a short, not-to-be-missed classic.Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Cli...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Cinque Torri Slideshow Add Photo
Map of Cinque Torre

BETA PHOTO: Map of Cinque Torre

The Cinque Torri Group

The Cinque Torri Group

View from the Cinque Torri

View from the Cinque Torri

Torre Quarta Alta, Torre Quarta Bassa, and Torre Inglese as seen from Torre Del Barancio

Torre Quarta Alta, Torre Quarta Bassa, and Torre I...

The view back to Cortina d'Ampezzo

The view back to Cortina d'Ampezzo

Rifugio Cinque Torri with Torre Grande looming in the back

Rifugio Cinque Torri with Torre Grande looming in ...

Cinque Torri from east.

Cinque Torri from east.

Smaller towers of the Cinque Torri; Left to Right: Torre Seconda (E.Face of Torre Lusy nearest camera), a small bump of Torre Latina, Torre Quarta Alta, Torre Quarta Bassa, and finally Torre Inglesi.

BETA PHOTO: Smaller towers of the Cinque Torri; Left...