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DescriptionThe Cinque Torri area of the Dolomites is a wonderful grouping of small towers uniquely situated between the impressive Croda da Lago mountains to the east and the grand south face of Tofana di Rozes to the west. The area offers a multitude of easy-to-access sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch traditional routes to the airy summits of the towers. Getting ThereFrom the quaint mountain town of Cortina d' Ampezzo, the Cinque Torri group is only roughly a seven mile drive up the windy road of Falzarego Pass. You can either drive to the well-signed “5 Torri” parking area and, for 7 Euros one-way (2009), take the 5 minute ride up the ski lift to the Rif. Scoiattoli and then hike five minutes to the Cinque Torri. For another 7 Euros you can ride the lift down but it's an easy 20 minute hike down a good trail if you'd rather save that 7 Euros for some wine with dinner. BasecampHotels abound in Cortina d'Ampezza and it's a short drive (~10 miles) up to the Falzarego Pass from Cortina. Renting a car for your trip is probably the best way to go allowing you early starts for the sure-to-be-crowded classics in the Falzarego Pass area. I suspect taxis and buses can be easily obtained but I don't know for sure. SeasonThe area is pretty high in altitude and obviously a great ski destination in winter so late spring, summer and fall are best. The towers themselves are lower than the surrounding mountains and can be easily bailed off from so they are a good choice compared to other areas in the Falzarego Pass vicinity if weather looks iffy. BetaThe English-translated version of the book “Classic Dolomite Climbs” by Anette Kohler and Norbert Memmel (ISBN 0-89886-693-6) published by The Mountaineers of Seattle, WA, covers the classic multipitch routes of the Cinque Torri. Finding and English version of a book covering the sport climbs of the area might be difficult but I haven't looked. Perhaps try Chessler Books online. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cinque Torri:
North Face 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Torre Lusy
Via delle Guide 5.5 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet Torre Grande West Summit
Via Normale 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Torre Quarta Bassa
Via Normale 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 165 feet Torre Inglese
Northwest Corner 5.6 Trad, 300 feet Torre Barancio
North Face 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Torre Barancio
South Face (Via Miriam) 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 530 feet Torre Grand South Summit
Tinsemal 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Torre Quarta Alta
Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct) 5.10a/b Trad, 8 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Torre Grand South Summit
East Face "Via Finlandia" 5.10b/c PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Torre Grande, North Summit
Franceschi 5.10d Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Torre Grand South Summit
Fandango 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Torre Grand South Summit
Nordica 5.12a Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet Torre Grand South Summit
Featured Route For Cinque Torri
Via Normale 5.6 International : Dolomites : ... : Torre Inglese
A great line, with good position and nifty, exposed moves up high, Via Normale on the Torre Inglese is a short, not-to-be-missed classic.Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Cli...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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