Cinco de Mayo Variation
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Crux is right after the 3rd bolt. Maybe 10+, but well protected. In the shade most of the day.
Route climbs the north side of the Spout. Starts off a 2 bolt anchor gained by a slightly run-out pitch up the east side of the spout, then an exposed traverse along the north side of the spout.
4 bolts to bolt anchors at the top. Recommended to bring webbing with you as the stuff at the anchors is exposed to the sun all the time and often needs to be replaced. Also good to have leaver biners or quick links for the webbing.
From: flagstaff, AZ
May 9, 2006
Teapot Traverse is the whole adventure. As described do the "exposed approach pitch" then the "sport pitch" past 3 bolts, then run out slab and crack toward the east to gain the "Handle"(first) summit. A "Needle-Simul-rap" off the west end w/ gets you to a super cool narrow saddle. Climb exposed (drops away on both sides) toward the north then up strenuous 5.9 cracks and ow to the "Pot" (summit)summit. Rap from fixed gear to another narrow saddle, continue up toward the west but on the north side to an awkward steep crack (5.10) and the final "Spout" summit. Rap to the north w/ double ropes and contour back to the east end.