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Cimmaron Lanes 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 1,218
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 20, 2001
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Description 

One of my personal favorites at The Gym, Cimmaron Lanes starts up just right of the block/dihedral that will greet you 50 ft right of the end of the trail. Run technical edges and pockets for 80 ft to reach a belay. Most parties bail out after finishing this crux pitch, however, the second pitch although modest is a real kick. Surmount the intimidating bulge above the belay on big pockets, bomber gear (a bit committing), and fun moves. The anchor is on the lip-like-ledge above.

Frankly, this line needs to be done in both pitches because the first pitch, alone, is not sufficiently distinguished from a slew of other 5.11 face climbs. This may give Cimmaron Lanes the amusing distinction of climbing a harder pitch just to get to the easy pitch.


Protection 

Eight to ten draws and a rope. Double bolt belay anchors are present at the top of each pitch. One can descend from the top to the ground with double ropes.



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By Mark Eller
Nov 2, 2001

I thought the crux move (pitch 1) was horrendously reachy -- until my diminutive partner high stepped through it with ease. Solid for the grade; fun moves and excellent rock.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 2, 2001

I think, Mark, you are talking about dropping the right hand into the crux pocket (?). I have a positive 8 inch ape index, and was not overly stressed to reach it. Again, if I recollect correctly, this was not a problem of toes-to-tips reach. I do recall the high step gambit, but did not log the exact move in my notes. I think either will work - if you have the wing-span it is probably easier to make the stretch.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I'm sure I was doing the move wrong, but I thought the crux of this route was extremely hard, more on par with the other 12's at Shelf. Who knows, I was climbing it in direct sunlight. It is a very good route though.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 8, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Excellent face climbing.

By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I agree with Mike, the crux on this thing felt hard for the grade and would make for a proud on sight.