Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge
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Description general: This is a stunning line up the left arete of Cima Piccola South face. It is very popular so you will certainly be sharing the route and the belays with others. The first pitch is a slick as glass from all the many ascents. If you feel you are off route – just look for well worn rock.
Pitch 1 – 20 m V: Start just left of the arete at a steep dihedral starting near a horizontal ledge. The corner is very polished. Climb this short corner carefully to a stance on a pedestal on the right.
Pitch 2 – 30 m V+: Climb the yellow corner past an overhang on the right and over the next overhang.
Pitch 3 – 40 m VI: Follow the corner and climb a crack through a roof then easier climbing to the right to a stance
Pitch 4 – 30 m III: Climb up right on easy grey rock.
Pitch 5 – 30 m IV-: Climb right, up then right to the base of a groove with a shallow crack
Pitch 6 – 60 m III, IV: Climb the groove for 2 pitches to a stance below a yellow overhang where the wall gets steeper.
Pitch 7 – 40 m V+: Climb the wall up and left past an overhang. Climb a short distance left then up to a stance below and overhanging dihedral to the right of the arete.
Pitch 8 – 50 m VI: Climb the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left to a stance on the edge.
Pitch 9 – 30 m V: Climb the arete to a stance below the final vertical section.
Pitch 10-11 – 70-90 m: Two options exit – Option 1 -traverse 20 meters left to some cracks and chimneys and climb them to the lower summit below the main summit (V-). Option 2 – climb straight up on a bit looser terrain that gradually eases (V+).
Traverse left to the climb easy chimneys to the main summit, or go over to the descent.
Location: Start just left of the arete at a steep dihedral starting near a horizontal ledge. You can recognize the correct route by the extreme polish on this first pitch.
Approach – From Cortina, drive over Passo Tre Croci to Misurina. From there drive on the small toll road north east to Auronzo Hut and park. Hike towards the Rifugio Lavaredo until below the obvious center spire (right of Cima Grande and left of Punta Frida). Hike up the climbers trail through the talus/scree to the arete on the left.
Descent – From the minor summit descent right towards the Cima Grande to the obvious abseils. Rappel all the way to the col between the Cima Grande and Cima Picolla. Descend south to the scree and the path below.
Protection: Standard Dolomite - bring 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.
|Photos of Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Cima Piccola Yellow edge route and descent
Cima Piccola Views from the Anticima summmit
Cima Piccola Pitch 7 traverse
Cima Piccola Start of the rappel
Spigolo Giallo (The Yellow Edge) - mid afternoon c...
How many thousands of people have stood on this si...
On the edge
BETA PHOTO: Route and belays are approximate.
|Comments on Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge
From: Sheffield, SY
Sep 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
A few things.
1) This climb is totally awesome. Get it!
2) The route description here is one of about 100 ways to get up there. Get a good topo, follow the general trend, and look for pins or new bolts to anchor belays. Many regions of the climb are wide open for your creativity. There are bizillions of bolts and anchors set up all over this rock, so don't assume you're "on route" if you're at some shiney new anchors.
3) Bring a singe rack of cams to 3" and a rack of nuts. While some guide books say "all protection and belay pegs are in place", on-route protection is only available where the climbing is hard (and sometimes not even!), and some anchors are very, very old and bad, especially the belay after the second pitch of VI, so backing up is desirable (and possible with some small gear).
4) Gaining the rappel anchors for descent is no fun -- DON'T do this in the dark. Traverse around the SW of the summit toward the the NW. Climb down to some decent ledges, then up an easy, and comfortable 4th class chimney/corner. Make one short rappel back down to the ledge and around a thin bulge. Here's how we did this. The "leader" rapped to the ledge, then led the sketchy traverse about 10 metres to the comfy ledge and built an anchor. The "follower" rapped, pulled the rope, then followed on belay. Make ~6-60m raps to the gully, then one 60m rap past the glacier.