Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin
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This an absolute must if you're in the area!Super Classic!
The first part is pretty easy, and some bolts are found on the anchors.
The hardest pitch is the first of the traverse, it goes up and left trough a steep wall. It has many really bad pegs and a few bolts, if you climb it at A0 take a hammer!This pitch had a fixed rope all the way in 2006. Please remove it if it is still there. This is NOT A VIA FERRATA!
After the crux pitch you traverse for 60m (1or2 pitches) and then come the famous 17meterüberhang, which goes free at 5.10+... The next pitch, a horizontal traverse(5.8) can be very wet, no problem though.
The rock is generally rather loose.After the traverse is completed the rock gets worse, and some pitches are not that good.
When you get to the ringband, keep going right around.
Two Germans were really close to the FA when the Italians Cassin and Ratti started climbing in the bad wheather and bagged another great FA.
Much Mayr soloed this climb free and on-sight in 2002, carrying only a 12m rope and a bit of equipment just in case in his backpack.Incredible feat.
Go around the South Faces of the tre cime. The climb starts up an easy groove on the extreme left part of the east face, just to the right(15m) of the edge, between N face and E-face.
Descent: go down the 'Normalweg' on the south face, Class 3. Tricky routefinding especially if foggy.
Cairns are there, consult a guidebook.
A few bolts and many pegs. Fixed rope was found on the crux pitch in 2006... maybe, hopefully not though, it's still there. The pegs are all pretty bad. Take a rack of stoppers and camalots from .4 to 3.
Many draws for the harder pitches (15).
Take hammer and 5 pitons, if you're able to use them. They are useful, especially on the upper part.
Helmet is essential for the final pitches, especially if the weather turned bad.
CAUTION: You cannot retreat from the route once you're behind the crux. The piches beyond this point are not much easier, but also not harder except if they were in too bad conditions.Watch the conditions.The Comici should feel easy compared to this climb.
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