Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Demuth, Lichtenegger, and Peringer |
Page Views: | 1,507 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on May 4, 2011 |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
The routefinding is relatively straightforward. Follow the initial wide crack to a rubble covered ledge. Proceed directly upward following the line of least resistance and several old fixed pitons. belay ledges are conveniently spaced until near the top. Much of the climbing is lower-middle fifth clsss (5.5.5.7) until a few hundred feet below the summit, at which point the difficulty increases. A steep stemming problem in a crack/dihedral at 5.8+/5.9- (a "hard Very Severe" according to my British parner, Lew Brown) pitch initiates the harder climbing. Looking upwards, the route is obvious, on steep and nearly crackless rock and is nearing 5.9 in difficulty. This is "R" rated terrain; don't fall.
Descend to the South, watching for old World War I barbed wire entanglements.
Descend to the South, watching for old World War I barbed wire entanglements.
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