Cielo Crack Crag (aka "Pacalolo" aka "Gap Crack") is a testament of hope to those who think Santa Barbara is climbed out—which it is. Kind of. At least the most obvious lines are. But for those who want a pleasant surprise which has been sitting right under their noses since the 80's, Cielo Crack is for you. While not a new addition to Santa Barbara climbing, Cielo Crack has fallen out of popularity in the last ten years, hence the prolific amounts of poison oak on the approach.
Cielo Crack Crag's namesake packs a mighty wallop in 35 feet, and touts as much—if not more—sustained, constant jamming than any other climb in town. Wide stuff, fists, off-hands, hands, fingers, off-fingers... it's all there. And did I say it begins as a roof crack? This splitter stays engaging to the VERY last move.
Drive up the 154 and take a left on West Camino Cielo. Drive about 80 yards and you will pass over a bridge. Look up through the trees to your left. The Crack is up the hill about 100 feet or so. Park in a pullout to your right.
Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
This has been climbed. Quite a lot, actually. I was called something like Pacalolo. There are a handfull of established routes in this area but it's all on private land so it was left out of the guide. As long as it stays low key climbing probably won't be a problem.
Yeah, the rock is soft, but that's pretty par for the course in SB, isn't it. The rock inside the crack is actually decent in my opinion, you just have to make sure your placements are super sound. I'm glad you're okay! I haven't been up there in a while. I'm curious how dirty the whole thing is.
well, it is DIRTY indeed. My belayer felt like he was taking a sand shower. Gritty and rough. I wish I had worn long sleeves and taped up for this one. Fierce little climb! I would recommend a BD#5 or even #6 for the start; the 5 was a bit tipped out!