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Cielo Crack Crag

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Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T 

Cielo Crack Crag  


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Elevation: 2,800'
Location: 34.5098, -119.8231 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,687
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jul 18, 2008
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Andy Patterson on an early attempt of Gap Crack.

Cielo Crack Crag 

Cielo Crack Crag (aka "Pacalolo" aka "Gap Crack") is a testament of hope to those who think Santa Barbara is climbed out—which it is. Kind of. At least the most obvious lines are. But for those who want a pleasant surprise which has been sitting right under their noses since the 80's, Cielo Crack is for you. While not a new addition to Santa Barbara climbing, Cielo Crack has fallen out of popularity in the last ten years, hence the prolific amounts of poison oak on the approach.

Cielo Crack Crag's namesake packs a mighty wallop in 35 feet, and touts as much—if not more—sustained, constant jamming than any other climb in town. Wide stuff, fists, off-hands, hands, fingers, off-fingers... it's all there. And did I say it begins as a roof crack? This splitter stays engaging to the VERY last move.

Getting There 

Drive up the 154 and take a left on West Camino Cielo. Drive about 80 yards and you will pass over a bridge. Look up through the trees to your left. The Crack is up the hill about 100 feet or so. Park in a pullout to your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cielo Crack Crag:
Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Browse More Classics in Cielo Crack Crag

Featured Route For Cielo Crack Crag
Should have worn flannel...

Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Cielo Crack Crag
Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Cielo Crack Crag Add Comment
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008
This has been climbed. Quite a lot, actually. I was called something like Pacalolo. There are a handfull of established routes in this area but it's all on private land so it was left out of the guide. As long as it stays low key climbing probably won't be a problem.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
May 6, 2010
Burlfest!
By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Dec 4, 2010
Great route even though it is short. Be careful placing gear since this rock is particularly soft.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
Dec 5, 2010
Brian pulled a piece twice, it was pretty tight
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 6, 2010
Yeah, the rock is soft, but that's pretty par for the course in SB, isn't it. The rock inside the crack is actually decent in my opinion, you just have to make sure your placements are super sound. I'm glad you're okay! I haven't been up there in a while. I'm curious how dirty the whole thing is.
By Richard Shore
Feb 5, 2011
well, it is DIRTY indeed. My belayer felt like he was taking a sand shower. Gritty and rough. I wish I had worn long sleeves and taped up for this one. Fierce little climb! I would recommend a BD#5 or even #6 for the start; the 5 was a bit tipped out!