Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
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Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.
Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.
The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.
|Photos of Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") Slideshow
Placing my last piece. Fingers.
starting around the roof
moving into OW territory
crux is even higher yet
|Comments on Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
|By Ken Klis|
Jul 19, 2008
SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
|By Jon Hanlon|
Jul 21, 2008
I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!