|Cielo Crack Crag
|Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T
Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.
Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.
The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.
Placing my last piece. Fingers.
moving into OW territory
starting around the roof
crux is even higher yet
|Comments on Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
|By Ken Klis|
Jul 19, 2008
SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
|By Jon Hanlon|
Jul 21, 2008
I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!
|By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman|
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Jun 1, 2014
The roof, lip, and wide section climb great. The finger exit moves were pretty dirty. Definitely worth doing, especially with the sub-2 minute approach.