Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Cielo Crack Crag
Select Route:
Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T 

Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Should have worn flannel...


Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.


Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.


The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.

Photos of Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing my last piece. Fingers.
Placing my last piece. Fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: moving into OW territory
moving into OW territory
Rock Climbing Photo: last crux.
last crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: starting around the roof
starting around the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome.
Rock Climbing Photo: crux is even higher yet
crux is even higher yet

Comments on Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Klis
Jul 19, 2008

SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Jul 21, 2008

I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!
By Internet Hardman
Jun 1, 2014

The roof, lip, and wide section climb great. The finger exit moves were pretty dirty. Definitely worth doing, especially with the sub-2 minute approach.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!