Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
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Should have worn flannel...
Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.
Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.
The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.
Placing my last piece. Fingers.
|Comments on Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
By Ken Klis
Jul 19, 2008
SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
By Jon Hanlon
Jul 21, 2008
I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!
By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Jun 1, 2014
The roof, lip, and wide section climb great. The finger exit moves were pretty dirty. Definitely worth doing, especially with the sub-2 minute approach.