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Medlicott Dome, Right
Routes Sorted
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15 Minutes of Fame S 
Bachar-Yerian T 
Big Time S 
Ciebola T 
Deflector T 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 
Shard T 
Shiner S 
Shipoopi! S 

Ciebola 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Bob Harrington, Alan Barteltt, June 1977
Page Views: 2,095
Submitted By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009

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Di coming up the runout end of the first pitch.

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.

Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.

Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing. At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay. This traverse can be hairy for the second. 30 meters.

Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.

Location 

This route starts on the nice very thin seam right of Sweat Jesus on the northwest face of Medlicott Dome's far west side. Approach as for Bachar-Yerian then go west about 200 meters.

Protection 

Thin stoppers to 1", include thin cams but no micro-nuts. A sling tie-off for the pin on the first pitch is probably safer than clipping the pin eye. Second pitch has 11 bolts. Double ropes can help with rope drag and better protect your second on the second pitch traverse.

All new big bolts thanks to the ASCA.


Photos of Ciebola Slideshow Add Photo
Diana following the second pitch of Ciebola.
Diana following the second pitch of Ciebola.
Ciebola 1
Ciebola 1
Ciebola 2
Ciebola 2

Comments on Ciebola Add Comment
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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 25, 2009

Ciebola is literally onion in Spanish. Cibola (sometimes Ciebola) is one the the mythical Seven Cities of Gold that Spanish conquistadors were searching for in the New World.

I think the second pitch of Ciebola is easier and less stressful than the third pitch of Úrsula, both excellent.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 26, 2009

Is the first pitch really 100 meters, or is that feet?
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 31, 2009

100 feet more or less sorry for the typo! Is MP metric or Imperial units?
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 31, 2009

Funny that ropes are in meters but our minds are in feet...

Always wanted to do that "Sweat Jesus" you mentioned too....

Just funnin' with ya.... I'll pull these comments after the next typo fix.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Coming back years later I forgot the first pitch is no give away. The second pitch is simply stunning.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

One of the best routes I did in three weeks at Tuolumne. Two very different pitches, both with their own memorable challenges. Incredible.