Ciebola  5.10b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Vern Clevenger, Bob Harrington, Alan Barteltt, June 1977 Submitted By:  john durr on Jul 25, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Diana following the second pitch of Ciebola.

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Description 

Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.

Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.

Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing. At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay. This traverse can be hairy for the second. 30 meters.

Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.

Location 

This route starts on the nice very thin seam right of Sweat Jesus on the northwest face of Medlicott Dome's far west side. Approach as for Bachar-Yerian then go west about 200 meters.

Protection 

Thin stoppers to 1", include thin cams but no micro-nuts. A sling tie-off for the pin on the first pitch is probably safer than clipping the pin eye. Second pitch has 11 bolts. Double ropes can help with rope drag and better protect your second on the second pitch traverse.

All new big bolts thanks to the ASCA.

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Di coming up the runout end of the first pitch.	Ciebola 1	Ciebola 2