|Camp 4 Wall
Getting started may be the hardest part of this climb. With an awkward move you can wedge your body up into a somewhat chimney move. The first 60' is a combination of jamming in one of two cracks (effectively hugging the rock) until a small ledge with a tree. Rap here or continue up another double crack system with a few laybacks and near chimney moves until you come to the true chimney. A few easier moves and you are at a ledge with two old 1/4" bolts and a large flake to rap from. Lancelot can also be TR'ed from here. I may not make it sound too fun, but its certainly a fun deviation.
Follow the stream bed out of the West end of Camp 4, it is on the second crag you come to on the left side. Scramble up a small dirt slop to a shaded flat landing. A large block is leaning against the wall which marks the base of Lancelot, Cid's Embrace is around the corner to the left.
A few nuts may be useful but mostly cams up to a #3 BD. Consider bringing doubles of the larger sizes and even a #4.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Feb 6, 2012
I found the upper section to be harder and more interesting than the lower section. I don't see why people stop after the first 60 ft! I found Lancelot to be less burly than this route, so I recommend climbing Lancelot as a warmup.
The upper section doesn't really have a double crack system, but rather, more of a wide flake that divides the chimney into two wide, wavy slots. The flake seemed too rounded for liebacking, so I stemmed and climbed the right slot as an offwidth. Wear long sleeves or the gritty rock will give you bloody triceps as you chickenwing. Frankly this upper section felt more like a 5.9 offwidth to me, maybe about the same difficulty as P2 of Doggie Diversions (or maybe I was just climbing it wrong :-) ). The cracks are really wide and I was regretting leaving my #5 Camalot on the ground. Bring one #5 Camalot if you want decent pro on the upper crux.
Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits.
For those just doing the first 60', the anchor was pretty shady, so I added new slings and a rapp ring as of February 2012.