Chute The Moon aims for the dark slabs high up in The Chuting Gallery. This upper wall is visible from the routes on Ra. The route is done in two pitches with the best climbing found on the upper slab. Start about 60' up-gully from Nice Chutin'.
Pitch 1: 5.10, 5 bolts, 65', 2-bolt anchor. Follow a line of gray bolts just right of a short arete. After 30' the angle drops and then it's 5.4 to the anchor.
P2: .11a, 13 bolts, 95', 2-bolt anchor. Veer left off the belay, work through an odd, little overhang (.9+), and then up a steep wall below the upper slab. The crux is mid-way up the slab and is .11a or b if you follow the bolt-line directly, but apparently it can be avoided at .10 by moving slightly right... Getting to the anchor seems a little scary unless done correctly (layback left).
This is in The Chuting Gallery. It is the third bolted route moving up the gully, about 60' above Nice Chutin'.
Quick draws and medium slings, 60m rope.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottom pitch shared with Chute Out is really crumbly at the bulge, but the upper pitch is solid past the ramp and defines the route. It can be done as a single pitch with some long runners. A 70m will allow the leader to lower just to the chains above P1, but JUST BARELY. Make sure #2 is tied in!