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 ADVANCED
(g) Morning Glory Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 Gallon Buckets S 
Anonymity S 
Cat Scan S 
Churning in the Ozone S 
Churning In The Sky S 
Churning in the Wake S 
Cool Ranch Flavor S 
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension  S 
Da Kine Corner S 
Dandy Line S 
Doritos S 
Energy Crisis S 
Exile On Main Street S 
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 
Gumby S 
Kings of Rap S 
Light on the Path S 
Lion Zion S 
Lion's Chair T 
Lion's Jaw T 
Magic Light S 
Magic Light Start S 
Main Line S 
Morning Sky S 
Nacho Cheese S 
Nine Gallon Buckets S 
Outsiders, The S 
Overboard S 
Oxygen S 
Sketch Pad S 
Taco Chips S 
Tammy Baker's Face S 
Vicious Fish S 
Waste Case S 
Zebra Direct S 
Zebra Seam S 
Zion T 

Churning in the Wake 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Sean Olmstead, March 1987
Page Views: 4,512
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006

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Getting ready for the final move on churning.

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Description 

"Ok, now your left hand goes up to the nubbin...
Good. Now reset your feet and bump out right to the Windshield Wiper holds...
Ok, match, then bump out to the pinch...
Bring your left hand into the crimp, bring your right foot up, and fire for the jug"

Any given morning or afternoon at the base of Churning will yield a similar string of beta from a belayer or helpful bystander. This is probably the most worked route at Smith and many people have it so wired they can spew beta and call out sequences without even looking at the person climbing it.

It's for good reason though, since it really is a classic route here. It starts on fantastic deep pockets and gets progressively harder, finishing with a crux traverse sequence at the last bolt. Whether you climb it as a warmup for harder routes or work it as a project it's absolutely worth doing if you can climb the grade. Due to the amount of help you'll get (whether you want it or not...) and the quality of the moves this would be a great first Smith .13a.

Location 

Far right side of the Churning Buttress, on the Morning Glory Wall.

Protection 

Bolts. There are often fixed quickdraws on it.


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