Chupacabra 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Tristan Higbee on Jul 22, 2008 |
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Jonny Wilson taming the crux of Chupacabra (5.10a)...
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Description This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. (Stay left if you want the 5.10 experience; going right makes it easier). After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains.
Location The steep prow/corner that is between the left slab (the section of wall that has Call of the Wild and Serengeti on it) and the right slab (the section of wall with Stampede and Welcome to the Jungle on it). Access it from the main landing (the landing under the slab routes on the left side of the Wild).
Protection 5 bolts to chains.
Christian Burrell on Chupacabra (5.10a).
| Sherrie working the crux on Chupacabra.
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Jul 23, 2008
| Ended up climbing a bit differently that we thought, but it wound up being pretty darn good. Mostly a jug haul up a steep wall but there are a few smaller, hard to see, holds thrown in for your pleasure. Will likley end up being the most popular route here. |
By Tristan Higbee From: Mexico Aug 16, 2008
| The most difficult climb on the wall. In my opinion, this is one of the best 5.10a's in the canyon. Pulling through the crux requires laybacking off of a sweet flake/rail. Just plain fun climbing. 8/21/08 EDIT: I've seen some people stay right at the 3rd bolt, avoiding the sweet (yet kinda powerful) lieback crux moves. If you do this, I don't think it's quite 5.10. The intended route is more to the left, up the steeper bulge. Either way is good, but be warned that there is probably more loose rock on the right side variation. |
By tysin schaugaard From: orem, utah Aug 17, 2008
| really cool climb but lots of flake off i pulled two huge flakes off today but i dont think it changed the climb any |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Aug 23, 2008
| Stay to the left and you will not only do the intended climb, but you will avoid all the loose stuff. |
By Jeff Jones From: Elk Ridge, UT Sep 4, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| Super fun like all the routes on this wall. Loved the layback in the middle of the route. You guys did a great job! |
By Aaron Child Sep 14, 2008
| Cool route! The feet were a little slippery when i began the lie-backing section, which made it pretty exciting. |
By Nich Cloward From: American Fork Aug 18, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| Very fun climb. Staying to the right makes it easier for, sure, but doing so puts you in a balancy spot for a move or two. Staying on the flake is much funner, and the feet are a little slippery, but it makes it exciting. |
By Christopher Sorensen From: Provo, UT Apr 24, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Led this for the first time today and I have to say, I thought it was top grade. The first part of the climb is good, the last part is good, nothing amazing, but the crux move is one of the funnest moves I've done. You can go to the right, yeah, but not only does it make it a lot easier (I watched a guy struggle and struggle through the crux before finally just climbing on the right to the chains), but you also miss the best part of the climb. |
By Kenny Clark From: State College, PA Apr 27, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| I would 2nd the previous comments. I mistakenly went right the first time I did this. I totally missed the sweet lieback moves. That's where the fun, and the difficulty lies. I also noticed that the footholds in the crux were indeed very polished. If you want your onsight, don't read this next part: a high heel hook can get you past the polished feet. |
By Brandon Bishoff From: Austin, TX Jun 16, 2011 rating: 5.9+
| This was a great, fun route. The lie back moves are a lot of fun, but i'd say the same thing about the foot holds that Christian did, I slipped on one and almost blew the onsight. Great rock in this whole area. |
By J Red Aug 30, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| Did this one last night for the first time. My wife and I missed the onsight, but what a climb. Really good hand holds and a fun flake at the crux. Just lie back and enjoy the ride. I lost my footing at the crux and took a nice fall. Very slippery. We are coming back next week to get our redpoint on lead. By far the best climb in the area. Highly recommend the climb if you are looking to start leading 10a's. |
By Canyon Copa Jun 1, 2012
| Big fun moves on great holds up over the bulge. Highly recommended. |
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