Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Chupacabra 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Clint Dillard and Rich Farnham
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Rich Farnham on Jul 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Clint Dillard on the FA of the first pitch.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route cris-crosses with Vampire at several points. There is some loose rock on this route, but nothing I think will come off any time soon. Just be careful what you grab and what you put pro behind. We trundled all of the loose stuff that we could get to move, so it should be fine--but this is more of an adventure climb that a sport climb.

P1: Follow thin cracks up blocky terrain a few feet right of the large, dirty corner. The upper third of this pitch has nice moves along a thin seam in good rock. We left 3 fixed knifeblades for pro in this section. Look for a 2 bolt anchor to the left after the knifeblade section. This anchor is about 10 feet below where Vampire crosses in from the right.

P2: Climb up and right, into the left-facing corner between "Vampire (P2)" and "The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked". The corner leans right for about 20 feet and climbs a lot more interesting than it looks from below. Enjoy the jug rest below the roof (often heavily chalked from people on Good, Bad,...) and then punch it through the bulge above on great finger locks. This crack leads you to the slab that is at the end of P2 of the Vampire. Belay as for P2 of the Vampire.

Several options exist from here. It is possible to climb right from this belay and get to the chains on "Stage Fright" or "Trash It...". Or you can follow the Vampire to the left and other rappel options along that route.

Location 

Start about 20 feet left of That's Weak, and about 5 feet right of a large gully.

Descent: the first anchor is equipped for rappelling. If you do the second pitch (recommended!), use one of the descent options mentioned above.

Protection 

We didn't place anything larger than a #2 Camalot, but depending on what you want to finish on, I would suggest a standard rack to at least a #3. The gear is mostly stoppers and small cams, so you might double on the Aliens up to a red.

P2 is heavy on the #0.5 Camalot/red Alien size. I used 3 on the pitch (but I sewed it up) and 1 more in the anchor. You could probably find other gear, but these were the most obvious and didn't use up good holds.


Photos of Chupacabra Slideshow Add Photo
Rich Farnham seconding the first pitch on the FA.
Rich Farnham seconding the first pitch on the FA.
Rich Farnham leading the second pitch on the FA.
Rich Farnham leading the second pitch on the FA.

Comments on Chupacabra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich Farnham
Jul 16, 2008

I have a hard time believing that a route this good had never been climbed, and would concede the FA to someone else if it has already been done. The terrain below the roof had seen some traffic. As mentioned above, the rest below the roof is used by the adjacent climb. Also it looked like someone had recently dislodged a loose block from the bottom of the right leaning section. All of this could easily be done from a toprope on Good, Bad, etc's anchor.

However, the finger crack above the roof (the crux and best part of the whole climb), was filled with lichen, and did not appear to have ever been climbed.

Regardless of who did it first, it's a great climb. Go check it out. It's a little junky at the start, but keeps getting better as you go.