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The route cris-crosses with Vampire at several points. There is some loose rock on this route, but nothing I think will come off any time soon. Just be careful what you grab and what you put pro behind. We trundled all of the loose stuff that we could get to move, so it should be fine--but this is more of an adventure climb that a sport climb.
P1: Follow thin cracks up blocky terrain a few feet right of the large, dirty corner. The upper third of this pitch has nice moves along a thin seam in good rock. We left 3 fixed knifeblades for pro in this section. Look for a 2 bolt anchor to the left after the knifeblade section. This anchor is about 10 feet below where Vampire crosses in from the right.
P2: Climb up and right, into the left-facing corner between "Vampire (P2)" and "The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked". The corner leans right for about 20 feet and climbs a lot more interesting than it looks from below. Enjoy the jug rest below the roof (often heavily chalked from people on Good, Bad,...) and then punch it through the bulge above on great finger locks. This crack leads you to the slab that is at the end of P2 of the Vampire. Belay as for P2 of the Vampire.
Several options exist from here. It is possible to climb right from this belay and get to the chains on "Stage Fright" or "Trash It...". Or you can follow the Vampire to the left and other rappel options along that route.
Start about 20 feet left of That's Weak, and about 5 feet right of a large gully.
Descent: the first anchor is equipped for rappelling. If you do the second pitch (recommended!), use one of the descent options mentioned above.
We didn't place anything larger than a #2 Camalot, but depending on what you want to finish on, I would suggest a standard rack to at least a #3. The gear is mostly stoppers and small cams, so you might double on the Aliens up to a red.
P2 is heavy on the #0.5 Camalot/red Alien size. I used 3 on the pitch (but I sewed it up) and 1 more in the anchor. You could probably find other gear, but these were the most obvious and didn't use up good holds.
Rich Farnham seconding the first pitch on the FA.
Rich Farnham leading the second pitch on the FA.
|By Rich Farnham|
Jul 16, 2008
I have a hard time believing that a route this good had never been climbed, and would concede the FA to someone else if it has already been done. The terrain below the roof had seen some traffic. As mentioned above, the rest below the roof is used by the adjacent climb. Also it looked like someone had recently dislodged a loose block from the bottom of the right leaning section. All of this could easily be done from a toprope on Good, Bad, etc's anchor.
However, the finger crack above the roof (the crux and best part of the whole climb), was filled with lichen, and did not appear to have ever been climbed.
Regardless of who did it first, it's a great climb. Go check it out. It's a little junky at the start, but keeps getting better as you go.