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Center Wall
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Chunky Tuna 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Richard Meining
Page Views: 1,652
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Chunky Tuna follows the horizontal crack up to the...

Description 

Chunky Tuna is located just to the right of Pro Sweat. This easy climb follows the long, arching overlap towards a headwall at the top. There is good protection (mainly small cams and stoppers) found all the way along the route. About two-thirds of the way up, you have to step over a small (4-6") flake. If there was a crux on the route, this was it. Continue up to the steep headwall with a slot to the right (Caver's Nightmare). There are no anchors on this route.

Protection 

Standard rack, no anchors.

Descent 

To descend, climb to the top of the slot (Caver's Nightmare), and either walk off the dome (if you’re done for the day or leaving the back side), or traverse left and down to the anchors right of Pro Sweat, and rappel (60m rope).

Per Stan Jones:
There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Caver's Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough.


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By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 18, 2008

It's low angle enough that one can even down climb at the point Caver's Nightmare crack begins, although newer leaders might not want to do that. This is a great route to learn gear placements on, as you are solid in each stance as you traverse.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Good route for a novice, which I am.

There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Cavers Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough.
By Superclimber
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The ground is never very far away on this traversing crack. The rookie leader needs to be aware of the multi-directional forces that may occur should the leader or second fall and place gear accordingly. Also, there's a black spot on this one that sometimes stays wet for a while after it rains.