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Chunky Monkey 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Season: Cool weather
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: jbak on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A brilliant, exposed, slightly overhung JUGGY arete/face climb. Except for a couple of wild moves, most of the route is left of the arete.

The 5.10 approach pitch is not bad and should not keep you off this climb.

Location 

To the right of the Sunnyside slab is an obvious arete high up. That is the second pitch.

Protection 

B & C


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By jbak
Dec 29, 2008

Just as Steve's Arete may be the most OVER-appreciated route around Tucson, Chunky Monkey may be the most under-appreciated. One of the best 5.11s in So. Az. It is better than Steve's (IMNSHO) and never sees any traffic. Good send Wing !
By lamina
Dec 29, 2008

I like both pitches - I think the lower pitch is much more interesting than the other 10 on the Sunnyside slab. The second pitch is great! Plus awesome view at the top and at the belay ledge as bonus.

John, thank you for telling me about this route and did it with me. I used to think it only matters if the routes are good. I am started to think maybe it also matters who I did the route with.
By jbak
Dec 30, 2008

Back at ya Wingo Dingo.
By Jimbo
Jan 2, 2009

I concur, John. Way to go Wing!!! Your huge!!!
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 6, 2009

Does anyone have a pic or two of this route?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 17, 2009

I thought Dean Brault did this route?
By jbak
Feb 17, 2009

EFer...I could be wrong...if you know for sure I'll change it. I don't have Dean's number.
By Jimbo
Feb 18, 2009

I thought Dean did the two pitch thing to the right, with Scott Brockmeyer.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 30, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed this route yesterday after seeing it on John Baker's "Top Mt Lemmon Sport 5.11s" list and I was not disappointed. The first pitch is good; the second pitch is awesome. The highlight is definitely dangling off the arete midway through the climb before returning to the left face.

The mixed route to the right looks awesome as well. It appears to be mostly bolted, requiring only 2 or 3 pieces, and more exposed.