Boulder up into the blocky roof, clip the first bolt, mount the roof (crux) and cruise the fun and easy dihedral above. For an interesting start, instead of surmounting the initial roof on face holds right of the 1st bolt, try via the flake and pocket to the left. Two stars if continuity of difficulty isn't involved in your quality scale, only the joy of movement.
Start at a prominent low roof with chunky rock, around the left corner from the face with I Claudius.
Seven bolts to two bolt coldshuts. Keep the belayer/spotter close by for the 1st bolt crux.
I guess everyone has decided to up all the grades for the new guide. This route is NOT 10d, it might be as the book says 10b but perhaps not even 10b. This route also does NOT deserve 2 stars ? stupid start (some very loose blocks), no flow to the route once it gets going. This is one of the worst 10s I have climbed at Shelf.
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Nov 14, 2002
Yes, the crux is short, the roof move really isn't all that bad if your footwork is solid, and the route has a distinctive change in character after the second bolt. But I liked it. However, it seemed odd to clip a bolt from a solid hand jam. I've probably placed as many stoppers and cams as I have clipped bolts, and I appreciate the traditions and commitment that gear routes represent. As a general rule, I don't think protectable cracks need bolts. For me, however, the bolts seem to work here.
By Larry Shaw Mar 27, 2004 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
5.10b tops. I thought the climbing after the roof was funner than going over the roof.
Yay stick clip!! I led this route on Sunday. I thought the roof was tricky but it's all a matter of getting the sequence down. Everything past the roof seemed no harder than 10a. Fun route.
By kjdetlor From: Colorado Springs, CO May 18, 2007
I definitely have to agree about this route not being 10c/d, I'd say 10a just because of the bouldery start, no moves harder than 5.9 after the roof if you know how to jam. Still really fun if you enjoy roofs and cracks, I had a great time on it!
I agree with the rating on this route. The start at the roof was tricky in certain spots, but if you try and figure out the moves before you start it is easier than it looks. The rest of the climb was a 5.9+/5.10 at best but just as much fun as the roof. The landing under the roof is soft and most of the rocks have been removed.
10a? Give me a break. Do any of you think you could have done this when you were climbing 10a? Yes it lets up to 9/10a climbing above the roof, but the beginning is all of the suggested grade. Fun stemming above the roof.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado May 12, 2008 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+E3 5b
No way this route is 10a. The roof climbs like a V1 boulder problem. Yes, it's pretty easy above the first bolt but C'mon, 10a at the start?
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 27, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
Fantastic boulder sequence to the start! And the crack climbing above is just pure fun.
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Nov 9, 2013
I did this today with the 10a mindset as listed in Bob D'Antonio's book and found it rather hard for the grade. I compared it (after the roof) to Dihedrus (10b), and this felt equally as challenging if not more due to the roof for the start.... In any case, still a fun one! 10b/c.