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Chummin' for Splatter
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
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Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mrazek, Martin (1987) |
| Page Views: | 1,881 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Chummin' follows a line 15 feet left of I Love LA.
Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains a massive ledge.
A reachy, 5.11 move gets you off the ledge. A few more moves gains another smaller ledge (and a good rest before pulling the roof). A couple of balancy moves (5.11b), with your left hand on the arete, lead to easier ground and then to the anchor.
Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains a massive ledge.
A reachy, 5.11 move gets you off the ledge. A few more moves gains another smaller ledge (and a good rest before pulling the roof). A couple of balancy moves (5.11b), with your left hand on the arete, lead to easier ground and then to the anchor.
Protection
This route is seriously runout at the crux. Any gear that might be placed is marginal. This is really only a toprope...and even then, significant swing-potential makes pulling the crux a thought-provoking endeavor.
I've explored placing a directional but none of the rock above the crux is hard enough to hold a bolt.
Update: 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin.
I've explored placing a directional but none of the rock above the crux is hard enough to hold a bolt.
Update: 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin.
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