Login with Facebook
Air Spire
Select Route:
Aimless Foreshadowing  T,TR 
Air S 
Chucklehead Crack T 
Phallus in Wonderland T,S 
Return of the Chucklehead's T 
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 

Chucklehead Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Leo and Wenzel
Page Views: 2,577
Submitted By: Corey Morris on May 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mark Wenzel felling the "cheat tree" at ...


Pitch 1: Has a tricky start. Follow crack for 45 ft. Then 4th class angling right to a one move pull to a ledge. On the north end of the air spire are 2 bolt anchors. 5.8~55 ft.
Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.6/7~45 ft.


From "Air" go directly down hill and turn left, this is the left-hand crack on this wall.


Standard rack. Pro seems pretty solid. Some larger cams for the 2nd pitch.

Photos of Chucklehead Crack Slideshow Add Photo
John starting Chucklehead.   Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
John starting Chucklehead. Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
Doug Hemken leading "Chucklehead Crack".
Doug Hemken leading "Chucklehead Crack".
John leading Chucklehead  Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
John leading Chucklehead Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
I know...my leg is in a bad position. Bad me.  Pho...
I know...my leg is in a bad position. Bad me. Pho...
clipping  Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
clipping Photo by: Jen Sjoberg
This is a fun route.
BETA PHOTO: This is a fun route.

Comments on Chucklehead Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jun 11, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Also known as "Spikes Crack" in the Ryan Hansen guidebook. FA in that book "Jeff Avercamp, 1985".
By Tradoholic
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

So this is what the slinged bolts were for! I kept going straight at the ledge just right of Air. Bad idea, pro was bad and rock was suspect.

I then topped out over Air and rapped off the chain anchors for this climb. Plenty of rope left over with a 70m.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route should not be missed! The crack in the beginning is great and offers good pro. Fun movement. The second pitch is an amazing chimney with some off-width moves as well. Chains on top to the right of the chimney. I'd say like 5.7 for the second pitch. Great pro all the way and fun climbing all the way. A bit taller than air. Had to double rap with a 60m.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The 2nd pitch belay anchor has new slings, and the slings aren't directly through the hangers anymore. Good climb, great views.
By Mark Wenzel
Nov 12, 2010

Pretty sure we did the first ascent, had to clean a ton of ferns / moss out of that thing. Also did the line to the right, as well as the thin buttress to the left. The line on the left required pulling a tiny roof on holds that seemed ready to snap... I wonder if they are still there.

The thing should be rated 5.7, it's far easier than the fingercrack on the first pillar at the beginning pf the crag (formerly known as hydroponics)
By Rich T
Apr 10, 2011

Does anyone konw what the second direct pitch is rated? I'd probably say 5.8ish. We got on the route yesterday not actually knowing what route we were on logically went straight up for pitch two. While there is a 5-10' section where the rock quality is poor this should not be missed.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 3, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very good route, great movement and pro. I used nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot for the top pitch. The chimney is, in my opinion, the better of the two pitches although the 1st pitch is where the route gets the grade. Rapped off with two 60's as another party did air and then we beer partied on top of the spire and yelled, "Hooooeeeeesssss!" to the boaters below- very obnoxious, I know, but it was 4th of July celebratory.
By Rich T
Aug 17, 2013

Climbed again yesterday and to me the first pitch is probably the best, most sustained 5.8 climbing at the bluff. Great climb.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!