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Back At You With The Realness 
Charlie's Crack aka Crescent Crack 
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Good Lord! aka The Tip Rip Face 
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High Way, The 
Jedi Minds 
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Chuckie's Torture 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Charlie Bentley
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Chuckie's Torture starts just to the right of the ...

Pick Your Poison 

Over the winter of 2010-2011, a piece of rock broke off of the wall creating a hold where, before, there wasn't one. The original problem & sequence is unaffected, however, it created another way to climb the wall. Before the break, an ascent of this problem was rare and it's safe to assume the original problem hasn't been climbed in a while.

Original Problem (Hard V9)



It starts sitting with a few holds in a low horizontal crack. Once you stand up into the underclings, a very long and tenuous move straight up to a flat, half-pad crimper gets you going. Get your left hand up to a small crimp on the left, then you have to use your technical prowess to tick-tack your feet and hands up...until you can gain the monster jug in the middle of the rock. A mantle on this hold is needed to top out. This is a great challenge of fingerstrength and footwork. The flake and foot jug out right never even come into play.

New Wave Version (V8)



The most obvious way to climb the problem. Start sitting in the crack, stand up into the underclings and grab the creaky flake. Continue through the crimps and stick a foot in the start hold of Jugs to reach the jug before topping out. If you choose to eschew the huge foot, it bumps the grade back to a soft V9. If the flake weren't there, the huge foot wouldn't be a question as there is no way to reach it on the original problem.

Location 

To the left Jugs - on the first boulder that you approach by hiking up the well defined trail from the left side of the Lower Slabs to the Upper Cliff.

Protection 

Crashpad


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 14, 2014
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 25, 2008

"Very long" is right! I'm just under 5'11" with a +1 ape index and I'm not sure I can make the reach.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 11, 2011
rating: V9 7C

A hold recently broke, leaving a slightly more friendly edge and a slightly shorter reach from the underclings. Getting to the jug after the crimps is still a massive dyno for me.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Apr 11, 2011

That news might reinvigorate my interest in this problem, Mr. Dalhaus.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 29, 2012
rating: V8-9 7B+

I sent this last week and was able to highstep and get a toe on the crack of jugs. I don't know if this was V9, but I've seen five people send this and they all did it like that. V8?

This was very dependent on body position, and is probably easier if you are taller.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 28, 2012
rating: V8 7B

Bryce-- I'm a bit confused about this problem. Is the creaky but good flake to the right 'on'? Or do you go straight off the underclings to the small crimps above and not use the flake out right?
By Rodriguez
From: Durham, NH
Jul 2, 2012

I think the "creaky flake" out right is in, but what I'm not sure about is the use of the starting horizontal crack of Jugs (V3) out right as a foot. I've seen it used in videos and Matt mentioned using it above, but I've heard mixed opinions on whether its supposed to be in or not. Perhaps it feels more like V8 if you use it, versus the given grade of V9 if you don't? If anyone knows the original sequence, I'd be curious if its in. Regardless, the movement through the crimps is great!
By Ethan Chase
Jul 2, 2012
rating: V8-9 7B+

The flake is on.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V9 7C

To my knowledge, the creaky crimp is "on" however any of the holds on Jugs are "off." Before the crimp broke and became a rather large hold, it wasn't even used as part of the problem. At 5'11" I'm not long enough to do the original sequence of using the underclings to reach the crimps directly above the start. I'd give the original sequence a morpho-dependent grade of hard V9, the new sequence with the flexi crimp a soft V9 and anything involving "Jugs" a V8.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V8 7B

Bryce (and everyone)--

Thanks for the info. It's really interesting to know the history and original beta for climbs. That all seems about right, with regards to the grades for all the different variations. Using the 'creaky flake' and the crack of 'Jugs' for a foot is arguably the most natural/least contrived of all the variations, but the direct move to the crimps above seems really cool too. However, at my height (shorter than you) it seems a bit too reachy. Anyhow, thanks for the answer. This is what Mountain Project is great for.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 25, 2013
rating: V8 7B

I climbed this route today and I think it is a very high quality route. I think the most logical and least contrived way to climb it is, start standing on the underlings and use both the creaky flake and the foot on the start hold of jugs, the line has nice flow and feel natural in this manner.

Regardless it is an awesome climb.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Way to crush, Matt! First v8? Congrats!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 26, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Yes Sir, it was my first v8, Thanks! This route is a pretty amazing line!
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 27, 2013
rating: V9 7C

Updated the description...
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 7, 2014
rating: V7-8 7B

glad I wasn't the one to rip the flake off the wall, that thing makes some loud sounds, be nice to it.
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 14, 2014
rating: V7-8 7B

Thinking about it some more maybe the new wave version is a bit easier than v8? Didn't feel too bad when it went, grades are an endless confusion. Great movement, great problem either way. More people should add to the discourse.